70 NATURALS


it very clear that they are not for human consumption.


Categories of food ingredients for cosmetics Natural gums This is a huge category which includes many different thickeners and stabilisers, mainly based on polysaccharide chains (hydrocolloids). The advantage of using these ingredients in cosmetics is their excellent safety profile, together with specific functionality which can be used to create unique textures in cosmetics and food. Care needs to be taken that the


microbiological limits are acceptable for cosmetics. Table 1 shows a selection of natural gums and their functions.


Starches Common in baked goods, sauces and batters, a wide range of vegetable-based starches are used in food. In cosmetics they can be used as thickeners and as a substitute for talc in powder formulations. Some common examples are rice starch,


corn starch, tapioca starch, potato starch and wheat starch. As with gums, the microbial specifications need to be examined before use as starches can be susceptible to contamination.


Oils, butters and waxes These can range from basic oils such as sunflower and olive, to more exotic products like buriti and passionfruit oil. Most liquid oils available from the food industry are triglycerides, with many containing unsaponifables such as carotenoids, plant sterols and triterpenoids which give the oil its characteristic properties. Solid oils (butters) contain fatty acids which


are solid at room temperature such as shea and cocoa. Many of these are used in the food industry in products such as chocolate, margarine and as food coatings.


TABLE 1: NATURAL GUMS Product


Xanthan Gum Carrageenan Guar Gum


Locust Bean Gum (Carob)


Gum Arabic (Acacia Gum)


Konjac Agar Agar Origin Fermentation Seaweed extraction Extraction from seed Extraction from seed Tree extrudate Plant extraction Seaweed extraction PERSONAL CARE October 2023 Figure 3: Vegetable oil Waxes such as rice bran wax have less


common applications such as in chewing gum or sprayed onto fruit to give it a shiny appearance. Liquid oils used in the food industry can be directly used in cosmetics and in most cases the grades are identical. Sometimes specific antioxidants are used in the cosmetic grades that can help extend the shelf life.


Emulsifiers Many food emulsifiers are also used in cosmetics, including the polyglycerol ester and sucrose ester families of products. Emulsifiers are used in food to combine oil and water phases together, for example in salad dressing, and to increase volume in baked goods. In cosmetics, emulsifiers are crucial to


keeping the product stable and giving a cream its characteristic texture. Mono and di- glycerides are also commonly used in food as they are low cost, vegetable derived and safe. In cosmetics, the equivalent glyceryl stearate is a very common ingredient in many cosmetic


Function in food


Stabiliser in sauces, salad dressings and vegetarian foods


Thickener and gelling agent often used in nut milks and other vegetarian foods


Thickener in drinks, sauces, instant hydration products


Often used in ice cream as a stabiliser and for specific mouthfeel


Binder in drinks, gives a rich mouthfeel


At higher levels, can be made into a jelly or low calorie noodles.


Used as a substitute for gelatine


Function in cosmetics


General thickener, good stabiliser for emulsions, suspending agent.


Thickener and stabiliser in creams and gels


General thickener and


texture agent in face masks and creams


As a thickener and gelling agent (transparency)


Film former, foam stabiliser


Used at lower levels as a gelling agent.


Thickener, gelling agent, moisturiser


formulations and can be used directly from the food industry, although the purer glyceryl monostearate (GMS) is preferred.


Other ingredients This is a large category of products that can include any ingredient used in the food industry, including waste products. In today’s trend for sustainability, this is a type of ingredient that is expected to be used more often than ever in cosmetics in the future. ■ Scrubs – many scrubs are waste products from the food industry such as seeds, nut kernels and fruit peels. Care must be taken with microbial contamination as these products may contain water and will be susceptible – products may need to be gamma irradiated or heat treated. ■ Proteins – the trend for functional, ‘clean label’ foods means protein powders such as pea, wheat and rice are readily available. These can have valuable properties as hair and skin conditioners in a wide variety of cosmetic formulations. Fruit and vegetable extracts can have a function as a general interest material e.g. ‘contains real apple extract’ or as a high-end active. For example, grape skins have naturally high antioxidant levels which have been developed into high end cosmetic actives with antioxidant and anti-aging properties.


Where can you find out more? Many food ingredients suppliers are happy to supply information for the use of their products in cosmetics. It is important to check the regulatory status and microbial limits of the products, but in general food ingredients can be an amazing source of inspiration and can add a point of difference to a cosmetic product. There are several excellent trade shows


held throughout the world promoting food ingredients which can be a great source of new ideas for the cosmetic industry, especially given the latest sustainable and upcycling trends.


Author note This article is based on a presentation given at the SCS ‘Success and Sustainability’ Conference in July 2023.


PC www.personalcaremagazine.com


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