74 NATURALS A C
B
D
Figure 2: Evaluation of the mitotic index through immunohistochemical staining of Ki-67. A : Untreated control epidermis. B: Treated epidermis with Serene Skin Sage (0.5%). C: Treated epidermis with Serene Skin Sage (1%) D:Treated epidermis with Serene Skin Sage (2.5%)
cellular proliferation in the skin tissue thanks to the skincare active. Ki-67 is the protein marker present during the active phases of the cell cycle, hence in the context of evaluating the mitotic index, tissue samples are treated with specific antibodies against Ki-67. This treatment allows for the visualization
and quantification of cells that are actively dividing. The mitotic index is determined by counting the number of Ki-67-positive cells in relation to the total number of cells observed. This information is valuable in assessing
the effects on cell growth and differentiation. In the case of the study the skincare active, the evaluation of the mitotic index using Ki-67 staining provided quantitative data on the stimulation of basal layer keratinocyte proliferation, demonstrating the effectiveness of the skincare active in promoting cell division and rejuvenation of the skin. By studying loricrin as a cell differentiation
marker, researchers gained valuable insights into the process of keratinocyte maturation and the development of the skin’s outermost layers. In the specific study on the skincare active, a notable increase of 21% in loricrin production was observed. Evaluating the synthesis of loricrin serves as a crucial measure to understand the impact of the skincare active
14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
Control +22% +27% +32%
on the cornification process. At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the
skincare active produced an increase in loricrin of 21%, 27% and 32% respectively. By studying loricrin as a cell differentiation marker, researchers were able to assess the skincare active’s effect on the synthesis and distribution of this essential cornification protein, providing valuable insights into its ability to enhance the skin barrier function and promote a healthy turnover of skin cells. Studying the increase in the synthesis of free
fatty acids and ceramides, particularly in the stratum corneum and intercorneocyte cement, provides important insights into the effects of the skincare active. Free fatty acids and ceramides play crucial roles in maintaining the skin barrier function and hydration. Under the experimental conditions, the
skincare active exhibited significant lipolytic activity at concentrations of 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5%. This activity resulted in an increase in the hydrolysis of total lipids, specifically free fatty acids, of 20%, 25%, and 32% respectively. The increase in free fatty acids indicates the breakdown of triglyceride lipids, which contribute to a shiny complexion. Furthermore, the skincare active
demonstrated a significant effect on ceramide synthesis at concentrations of 0.5%, 1%,
6 5 4 3 2 1
0 0.5% 1% 2.5%
Figure 3: Loricrin rate based on concentration of the skincare active 0.5%, 1%, 2.5%
PERSONAL CARE October 2023 Control 0.5% 1% 2.5%
Figure 4: Free fatty acids rate based on concentration of the skincare active 0.5%, 1%, 2.5%
+20% +25% +32%
and 2.5%. The product stimulated ceramide synthesis by 22%, 28%, and 34% respectively compared to the untreated control. Ceramides are essential lipid molecules that help maintain skin barrier integrity and hydration levels. These findings highlight the efficacy of the
skincare active in promoting lipid balance and ceramide production, which are essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier, preventing moisture loss, and contributing to a radiant complexion. The ability of the skincare active to enhance lipid synthesis and breakdown triglycerides further adds to its potential to improve skin texture and overall appearance.
Balancing and protective effects on the microbial environment The skincare active exhibits a key action of rebalancing the skin’s microbial environment (micro-organisms) and the expression of antimicrobial peptides. To evaluate the impact of the skincare
active, researchers looked at the adhesion of four bacterial strains, namely Staphylococcus epidermidis (a beneficial bacterium), Staphylococcus aureus, Corynebacterium xerosis, and Cutibacterium acnes (associated with various skin conditions). The adhesion of these bacteria was assessed on reconstructed
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
Control +34% +22% +28%
0.5%
1%
2.5%
Figure 5: Ceramides rate based on concentration of the skincare active 0.5%, 1%, 2.5%
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Loricrin rate (ng/ml)
Free Fatty Acids rate (nmol)
Ceramides (ng/ml)
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