Volume 24 Issue 9
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REGULARS 5
6 9
Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Ashland News
101 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES 16
43 19
Interview: Amazon primed Ahead of in-cosmetics Latin America in São Paulo, Brazil, editor Tim Probert spoke to Clariant global marketing and formulation manager for actives and natural origins Flavia Igreja, and South America marketing manager Diana Gaitan, to discuss regional trends and new formulations
19 Seizing the innovation spotlight
in Bangkok A comprehensive preview of the in-cosmetics Asia trade show, which takes place at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre on 7-9 November. Over the three days at the Thailand trade show, more than 500 leading suppliers and specialists will showcase over 1,100 ingredients
31 SPF booster developed from
NASA research Delavie Sciences researched the effects of space travel on the human body with NASA JPL (Jet Propulsion Laboratory), such as ageing. Organisms were researched aboard the International Space Station for 18 months, and one microorganism stood out for its ability to withstand the harsh environment of outer space
37 Unlocking UV benefits and claims
beyond SPF While UV filters effectively shield the skin from sunburn, they also offer a broader range of benefits for skincare. To raise awareness about these advantages, DSM-Firmenich conducted an extensive review of scientific studies exploring the role of UV filters in five key areas
43 Novel biopolymers to shield UV damage When all the benefits from Glucose-Mannose Biopolymer (GMB) are combined with the use of sunscreen, the result is a holistic approach to ultimate sun protection. GMB improves communication between all protective skin cells. This innovative UV protection approach results therefore in a 3D-defence strategy
49 SPF boosting with fibrillated cellulose Fibrillated cellulose can be used as an alternative to synthetic polymers and potential microplastics as a stabiliser of sun care formulations. They also act as an SPF booster of mineral and hybrid mineral and chemical sunscreens, allowing the reduction of UV filter concentration in the formulation while maintaining the level of protection desired
57 The antibacterial power of lichens In vitro studies have shown the capability of a sodium salt derivative to inhibit the main bacteria involved in different skin, hair and oral discomforts. Clinical tests have also shown the performance of Evosina GP Green to visibly reduce desquamation of the scalp, relieve the irritation and itching sensation of both dry and greasy dandruff
63 Natural coconut-derived antimicrobial
active Natura Aeropack demonstrates how a coconut-derived antimicrobial active shows considerable potential as a versatile and broad-spectrum preservative, catering to the unique demands of both cosmetics and personal care products
68 Using food ingredients in cosmetics:
pros and cons The use of food ingredients in cosmetics is not a new concept. However, as Alchemy Ingredients explains, there are numerous important differences between food and cosmetic ingredients that need to be taken into account when formulating with them
73 Unlocking the power of serene sage A skincare active made from sage (Salvia officinalis) represents a significant breakthrough in skincare, harnessing the power of the skin microbiome to enhance radiance and soothe the skin, claims French maker Naolys
68 93 79 Is SynBio the answer to personal care
prayers? While the major material benefits that synthetic biology can bring to the cosmetics and personal care industry still lie some way in the future, there is much promising activity underway, Sagentia Innovation explains
85 The many functions of azelaic acid in
cosmetics Azeco explores the performance of azelaic acid, which it says exhibits superior performance for the treatment of acne vulgaris, rosacea and melasma as for hair (re)growth and skin lightening by means of enzyme inhibitions
89 Biosolvents to address environmental
needs Presperse demonstrates that biosolvents offer significant reductions of CO2
emissions by replacing
fossil fuel-derived ingredients in personal care. These ingredients meet all sustainable expectations related to the feedstock, green chemistry principles and lifecycle assessments while maintaining necessary product efficacy
93 Upcycled food waters for cosmetic
formulations French personal care ingredient maker Biolie has used its patented enzymatic extraction technology to create certified organic vegetable waters. It resulted in three active extracts of organic zucchini, organic pear and organic cucumber
97 Fermented α-Bisabolol for natural
soothing Aneco has developed a-Bisabolol (product name: BioSyn-Bisabolol) by using advanced sustainable biotechnology, which the Chinese company says is also in line with the development trend of green/natural, high-end cosmetic raw materials
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October 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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