NATURALS
based on oligopeptide-68 at 2% , azelaic acid at 8% and glycolic acid at 3% for photo-aged skin during 12 weeks. This association already demonstrated an anti-ageing efficacy on human cutaneous explants. Forty-two Caucasian volunteers (45-70 years old) were included and analyzed. At inclusion (D0), subjects presented
periorbital wrinkles graded 3 to 6 (from 1 to 9 scale) and at least one target facial lentigo. This serum was applied on face and neck twice daily (morning and evening), clinical and instrumental photo-ageing signs assessments were performed. The local score for the target lentigo improved significantly after four, eight and 12 weeks of serum application (42% of improvement). AEVA assessment showed a significant improvement of the rough structures (deep wrinkles) after four weeks (p=0.008).
Azelaic acid in hair growth products Azelaic acid is a well-known inhibitor for 5α-reductase: the enzyme that converts testosterone into 5α-dihydrotestosterone, a major cause for alopecia areata and hair loss. Due to the relative absence of dihydrotestosterone, regression of the hair follicle will take place (the catagen stage) and subsequently hair generation will take place (the anagen stage). This enables the use of azelaic acid for hair regrowth.18 Unfortunately the number of clinical studies
is limited; the pilot study dates back to 2005.19 This study was performed to evaluate the effectiveness and safety of azelaic acid on patients suffering from alopecia and/or alopecia areata. The results using azelaic acid were compared with the effectiveness of anthralin (1,8-dihydroxy-9- oxoanthracene), a drug prescribed to treat psoriasis and frequently used for the treatment of alopecia areata. It was concluded that the performance of azelaic acid is comparable with the results obtained with anthralin for hair (re)growth. Also Zn2+
based salts are inhibitors for 5α-
reductase; the efficacy of zinc sulphate, for example, was significantly increased with the simultaneous use of pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6). Pyridoxine hydrochloride did not result in increased efficacy of azelaic acid. However, the powerful combination {azelaic acid + zinc sulphate + vitamin B6} for the treatment of androgenic alopecia is cosmetically suitable contrary to the steroidal and non- steroidal pharmaceutical preparations present on the market for the treatment of this kind of disease.20
Conclusion Azelaic acid can be better defined as a cosmeceutical ingredient, in fact, it shows both cosmetic and pharmaceutical properties. The performance of azelaic acid exhibits superior performance for the treatment of acne vulgaris, rosacea and melasma as for hair (re)growth and skin lightening by means of enzyme inhibitions. The toxicological properties of azelaic
acid are superior compared with the current pharmaceutical active ingredients used for the treatment of acne vulgaris or rosacea; the side effects of azelaic acid are minimal and can
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be mastered rather straightforwardly, using commercially available Azepur® 99, the highest pure product in the market. Azepur 99, a real sustainable ingredient,
100% bio-based and palm oil free, obtained by a sustainable process from a definite vegetable source (high oleic sunflower oil) is the perfect choice for high-performing (multi-action way to act) and sustainable cosmetic solutions for skin and hair care.
References 1. Nazzaro-Porro M, Passi S, Morpurgo G, Breathnach A. (1979a) Identification of tyrosinase inhibitors in cultures ai Pityrosporum and their melanocytotoxic effect. In: Pigment cell 4: Biologic basis of pigmemation (Ed. By S.N.Klaus), p. 234. S. Karger, Basel
2. Nazzaro-Porro M, Passi S, Balus S, Breathnach A, Martin B, Morpurgo G. {1979b) Effect of dicarboxylic acids on lentigo maligna. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 72, 296
3. Shin JW, Park KC. Current clinical use of depigmenting agents. Dermatol. Sin. 2014, 32, 205–210
4. Thiboutot D. J. Drugs Derm. 7,13 (2008) 5. Zouboulis CC. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clinics in Dermatology. 22, 360 (2004)
6. Ramos da Silva M, Carneiro SC. Acne vulgaris: Review and guidelines. Dermatology nursing/ Dermatology Nurses’ Association. 21, 63 (2009)
7. FDA (US Food & Drug Association). Topical Acne Products Can Cause Dangerous Side Effects
8. National Center for Biotechnology Medicine. US National Library of Medicine
9. Mayer da Silva A et al. Acta
Derm.Venereol. Suppl. 143,20 (1989)
10. Akamatsu H, Komura J, Asada Y. Inhibitory effect of azelaic acid on neutrophil functions: a possible cause for its efficacy in treating pathogenetically unrelated diseases. Arch. Dermatol. Res. 283,162 (1991)
11. Shin JW, Park KC. Current clinical use of depigmenting agents. Dermatol. Sin. 2014, 32, 205–210
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12. Breathnach AS. 1996. Melanin hyperpigmentation of skin: melasma, topical treatment with azelaic acid, and other therapies. Cutis. 57(Suppl 1): 36–45
13. Lowe NJ, Rizk D, Grimes P, Billips M, Pincus S. Azelaic acid 20% cream in the treatment of facial hyperpigmentation in darker-skinned patients. Clin. Ther. 1998, 20, 945–959
14. Webster G. Combination azelaic acid therapy for acne vulgaris. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2000, 43, S47–S50
15. Sarkar R, Bhalla M, Kanwar AJ. 2002. A comparative study of 20% azelaic acid cream monotherapy versus sequential therapy in the treatment of melasma in dark skinned patients. Dermatology. 205: 249–254
16. Fitton A, Goa KL. 1991. Azelaic acid. A review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs. 5: 780–798
17. Rossi AB, Nocera T, Lapalud P. Study sponsored by Pierre Fabre Dermo- Cosmétique. Poster presented at AAD Meeting –Washington DC. March 4-8, 2016
18. Brand-Garnys EE, Brand HM. Hair growth & Azelaic acid.
https://azelaicacid.com/azelaic- acid-hair-growth/
19. Wood AJJ, Price VH. N. Engl. J. Med. 341,964 (1999)
20. Stamatiadis D, Bulteau-Portois MC, Mowszowicz I. Inhibition of 5 alpha- reductase activity in human skin by zinc and azelaic acid. Br. J. Dermatol. 119,627 (1988)
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