NATURALS
Biosolvents to address environmental needs
Dr. Izabela Staniszewska – Presperse
With the growing number of consumers who are ready to take a stand for what they believe in, such as environmental and ethical issues, there is a high demand for green, sustainable personal care products and cosmetics. As currently there are no regulations defining
green or sustainable ingredients, the application of green chemistry principles, various acknowledged certifications, low environmental impact, product life cycle and sustainable procurement might be used as a guidance to green raw material selection. Applying these criteria, together with
efficacy, a sustainable supply chain, transparency and traceability is our company’s way to continue a journey of making the world a cleaner, safer, and more beautiful place for all of us today and for future generations. As consumers became more educated about the cosmetic industry’s social and environmental issues, cosmetic companies and ingredients manufacturers showed commitment to Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) and UN Sustainable Development Goals, resulting in fast transition towards green and sustainable ingredients. Currently, there is no legal definition of green
or sustainable ingredients. When choosing sustainable raw materials, product development chemists need to rely on ISO 16128 Guideline on Technical Definitions and Criteria for Natural and Organic Cosmetic Ingredients and Products,1
or FTC’s Green Guides.2 Yet there are other important parameters that need to be considered, including ingredient
4.5 4
Levulinate Ethyl -0.347 kgCO2
Ethyl PG-Acetal Levulinate -1.7 kgCO2
Acetal Levulinate -0.295 kgCO2 Ethyl Glycerin-
Propylene Glycol -4.14 kgCO2
-eq/kg -eq/kg -eq/kg -eq/kg
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
Propylene Glycol
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Carbon footprint of levulinate derivatives
Ethyl Levulinate Ethyl
PG-Acetal Levulinate
Ethyl
Glycerin Acetal Levulinate
89
efficacy, human health and safety, effect on ecosystems and environment, source of feedstock, principles of green chemistry and certifications.
How to tame the beast with sustainable solvents When it comes to sustainability, solvents appear to be the most challenging ingredients for cosmetics. Recent years’ developments
and research, however, provided great sustainable technologies for solvents, including fermentation-based processes, food waste feedstock and advances in green chemistry. Fermentation-based processes, with plant
feedstock, allow for solvents to have a natural origin index as high as 1. These processes contribute to upcycling food waste biomass and there is no chemical synthesis, per se, involved. The use of biomass and food waste offers a great solution to the resource depleted world.3 In recent years, Presperse has partnered with sustainable development companies who offer various solvency solutions obtained using non-fossil sources of organic carbon. These alternatives to traditional solvents address the needs of environmentally conscious consumers while providing key benefits in skin care.
Bio-based derivatives of levulinic acid NXT SOLV products, levulinic acid derivatives, are novel bio-solvents, created from non-food biomass, corncobs and bagasse. These highly affordable ingredients offer the opportunity to replace petrochemicals with sustainable alternatives without loss of performance. Levulinic acid has been identified by the
US Department of Energy as one of the top 12 value-added chemicals from biomass.3 Determination of biobased carbon content
October 2023 PERSONAL CARE
Carbon Footprint
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