SKIN CARE
Astaxanthin: Red diamond amongst antioxidants
DI Katharina Dokulil – BDI-BioLife Science, Austria
As the largest organ of our body, the skin plays an important role as a protective barrier. Its health and morphology determine our appearance and significantly contribute to our wellbeing. As a protective shield, the skin is
constantly exposed to external environmental influences and stress caused by internal factors like athletic exertion and external factors like UV rays. To maintain and support the skin as a protective barrier, numerous active ingredients are used in cosmetics. These include antioxidants, which can neutralise stress factors in the skin. Astaxanthin belongs to the carotenoid
family and is considered the strongest natural antioxidant. Due to its special molecular structure (carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms), it is specifically classed among the xanthophylls.1
Basically, natural astaxanthin
can be produced in a unique biochemical process from photosynthetic bacteria, algae and yeasts.
The highest concentrations
are accumulated by the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. In this, the molecule astaxanthin is directly linked to phospholipids and is present as monoester and diester, depending on whether the fatty acids react with one hydroxyl group or with both hydroxyl groups.2
As a cosmetic
ingredient, astaxanthin is gently extracted from crude Haematococcus pluvialis biomass by supercritical CO2
extraction; it is also fat- soluble.
Molecular structure of astaxanthin Astaxanthin has 40 carbon atoms. With its 13 conjugated double bonds, it provides a tremendous antioxidant capacity capable of eliminating oxidative stress and free radicals.3 Due to its unique molecular structure,
astaxanthin is highly effective against reactive oxygen species (ROS), highly reactive chemical molecules formed due to the electron- accepting capacity of oxygen. However, it does not show pro-oxidant side effects, unlike vitamin E, lycopene or ß-carotene. It is 6,000 times more potent than vitamin C and 100 times more potent than vitamin E in neutralising singlet oxygen.4
Its naturalness,
enormous efficiency and uniqueness make it the ‘diamond of radical scavengers’.
ABSTRACT
The skin is the largest and most exposed human organ and plays a key role in everyone’s health and appearance. Every day, the skin is exposed to sunlight and needs support to function as protective shield. The natural carotenoid astaxanthin from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis is considered the most powerful antioxidant. It neutralises harmful free radicals and is highly effective against the impacts of UV radiation. Astaxanthin cannot replace conventional UV filters, but it can make sun protection products more effective. With its branded active ingredient AstaCos OL50, BDI-BioLife Science has proven these biological protection benefits through human clinical studies. Unlike other antioxidants, astaxanthin does not turn into a pro-oxidant and is therefore called the ‘red diamond of radical scavengers’.
As an antioxidant, astaxanthin can be used in
a wide variety of cosmetic applications. Because it has both hydrophilic and lipophilic components in its structure, it can act more effectively in the lipid bilayers of the skin than most other antioxidants. As a fat-soluble ingredient, it opens up numerous processing possibilities in cosmetics, and its natural, vegan red colour provides cosmetic applications with a unique selling point (Figure 1). AstaCos® OL50 is a cosmetic active ingredient
developed by BDI-BioLife Science. The active ingredient with 5% astaxanthin dissolved in high-quality jojoba oil was COSMOS-certified in 2021 (Figure 2). Possible applications range from anti-ageing products to formulations combating the effects of UV exposure and light. Furthermore, AstaCos OL50 can be used as a supporting ingredient in sunscreen products and face creams.
Figure 1: Colour spectrum of AstaCos OL50 in an O/W emulsion
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Figure 2: AstaCos OL50 dissolved in jojoba oil
Light-induced oxidative stress & the role of ROS Light-induced oxidative stress plays a crucial role in human skin ageing and skin damage. Whenever skin molecules absorb UV light or visible light and transfer energy to oxygen, they enter an excited state and form singlet oxygen. Skin photosensitisers transfer charge to oxygen, causing ROS and free radicals.
October 2021 PERSONAL CARE
85
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