Volume 22 Issue 9
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
7 9
Editor’s comment Cover story News
16 Event preview: NYSCC Suppliers’ Day
88 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
19 Review of vitamin A in skin care Expert analysis from Dr Cuross Bakhtiari of
Harley Street Cosmetic of how vitamin A metabolites are used for the treatment of various skin conditions
25 The truth about natural fragrances Misunderstandings and misconceptions
abound over what ‘natural’ really means in fragrances. We spoke with four experts from Iberchem to clarify matters
30 Naturality & biodiversity in the
cosmetics industry At Alban Muller, biodiversity preservation is a business driver, an integral part of product design and a criterion in ingredient supplier selection
35 Super-natural: Sustainability
in naturals To increase the sustainability of naturals, the personal care industry should invest in ingredients created using new farming techniques and agricultural methods, says Lake Chemical
39 Benefits of organic & inorganic UV filters Croda has found that a combination of organic
and inorganic can work best when it comes to protecting the skin from the effects of the Sun
44 Solid emollient bases for mineral
sunscreens Penreco conducted a study to test mineral sunscreen sticks formulated with its Versastique solid emollient bases against a market-leading alternative. The results are shared here
47 Sun care ingredients for a changing believes 51 Silicones in personal care:
The formulator’s dilemma Industry guru Tony O’Lenick shows how formulators can employ minimally disruptive formulation and functional formulation techniques to switch rapidly between all-natural products and those containing synthetics
54 Resin blend emulsion for
user-friendly anti-frizz AB Specialty Silicones set out to manufacture a cosmetic ingredient that is high-performing, multi-functional, compliant with EU regulations and easy to formulate with. Can one ingredient ‘have it all’?
57 Novel marine magnesium & trace
minerals for skin Oriel Marine outlines how its liquid Marine Magnesium Mineral extract outperform traditional minerals in terms of stability, bioavailability and biofunctionality
61 The soothing effect of a red sage
active In order to relieve sensitive skin, Silab has developed an overall natural neuro-soothing active, derived from the red sage grown in China. It shares the results here
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world Tomorrow’s sun care formulations will be all about more function from fewer ingredients, with a strong focus on naturals, Cornelius
65 New approach to suppressing
wrinkles Ichimaru Pharcos has developed peppermint leaf extract as a raw cosmetic ingredient that shows wrinkle improvement effects by suppressing the rise in eATP concentration in the skin
69 Maximising efficacy of algae extracts
in skin care Bicosome and Ultra Chemical showcase a double encapsulation system that both stabilises the active in an algae-based formulation and delivers it to the epidermis
75 Peptides: Their role in epigenetic
processes Jelena Miladinović-Delić, founder and the director of Beauty Core, looks at the potential peptide molecules offer, in particular where fine cellular and molecular mechanisms are used to regulate gene expression
80 Helping beauty industry understand
‘microbiome’ Dr Tina Meder discusses how brands offering microbiome-friendly solutions can educate beauty therapists and retail sellers in order to promote their greater use
85 Astaxanthin: The red diamond
amongst antioxidants Astaxanthin can improve the overall health of the skin, providing comprehensive biological cell protection against cell damage caused by UV radiation. BDI shares some results about its AstaCos OL50
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