SUN CARE
7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 NSZ VS-C VS-LM Figure 3: Transfer rate of sunscreen prototypes vs. benchmark
(SPF) performance after immersion. When tested against the commercial benchmark, these prototypes demonstrated comparable or improved hardness, friction, transfer rate and efficacy, in the following areas: ■ Hardness: The sunscreen prototypes have lower hardness than the benchmark (NSZ) while maintaining sufficient structure and integrity. Softer stick products are gentler to apply onto the skin (Figure 1) ■ Friction: The prototypes have lower friction as well, meaning it takes less force to spread the product over skin (Figure 2) ■ Transfer rate: The prototypes have comparable or improved transfer rates, meaning the amount of product transferred to the skin is equivalent or higher than the benchmark. In other words, it is easier to transfer these sunscreens to the skin without applying an excessive amount of the product (Figure 3)
6.6 5.7 5.7
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
59 53 Pre-immersion ■ Post-immersion ■ 58 60 53 53
45
NSZ
VS-C
VS-LM
Figure 4: In vitro performance of sunscreen prototypes vs. benchmark, pre- & post-immersion
■ Efficacy (in vitro SPF performance — static vs. post-immersion: The prototypes have comparable SPF performance to the benchmark. The water-resistant properties of Versastique make possible equivalent or higher SPF post-immersion vs. the static or pre- immersion values (Figure 4) The mildness, high efficiency and water-
resistant properties of Versastique makes it an attractive base for high-performance mineral sunscreens. Due to the performance and formulation dynamics of mineral UV filters, it is important to optimise mineral sunscreen formulation. The incorporation or removal of one ingredient can significantly change overall product performance. In addition to sun care, these solid
product bases can be used for the following applications: ■ Colour cosmetics: concealer, foundation, blush/highlighter, face and body paint, lipstick,
lip liner, eye liner, multi-stick ■ Personal care: deodorant, cleanser, mask/peels ■ Skin care: oils, insect repellent, cuticle oil, complexion correction, aftershave ■ Health care: scar treatment, topicals, ointments, wound-healing products, pain relief, acne treatment ■ Hair care: pomades, styling products, treatments
Conclusions As the study shows, Versastique offers a simplified solution and formula optimisation requiring less ingredients to create high- performance, water-resistant stick products. The prototypes achieved comparable performance to a market-leading benchmark with a more efficient formulation (ten ingredients as opposed to 15) while also providing superior texture. Additionally, the co-polymer system in
Versastique provides a higher melting point than traditional wax bases, so the sunscreen stick does not melt when exposed to the sun or higher temperatures. The benchmark has a melting point of 75°C compared to 95°C for the VersaSun C stick and 88°C for the VersaSun LM. The VersaSun stick formulation combines
Versastique and mineral sunscreen agents for an even and protective application that goes on smoothly. The stick formulation strategy also includes optimised ingredients, such as SPF booster, dispersants, waterproofing agents, structurants and a skin-feel enhancer. This study has demonstrated that Penreco’s solid emollient bases are gentle, efficient, high-performance vehicles for the creation of high-quality mineral sunscreen sticks. As the industry transitions to mineral sunscreen products, there is a tremendous amount of ongoing innovation in the active ingredients and delivery systems of next generation sunscreen products. The solid emollient bases in this study are a proven vehicle in which to create and deliver the future high performance sunscreen stick products for the benefit of consumers and the environment.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
PC October 2021 PERSONAL CARE
mg/application
SPF
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