SKIN CARE
The soothing effect of a red sage active
Mélanie Coirier, Emilie Lasjaunias, Brigitte Closs – Silab, France
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Figure 1: Roots of red sage
Sensitive skin is a widespread skin disorder characterised by a lower tolerance threshold to external stress by individuals complaining of unpleasant sensations and non-negligible psychological consequences. In order to relieve sensitive skin, Silab developed an overall natural neuro-soothing active, derived from the red sage (Salvia miltiorrhiza).
A bio-inspiring red sage Salvia miltiorrhiza is a medicinal plant cultivated in China and also widespread in nature. It has a high capacity to resist abiotic stresses and so adapts to most environment changes. Most cultures of Salvia miltiorrhiza are located in the regions of Sichuan and Shandong, where winters are harsh and temperatures very low. Red sage resists the lowest temperatures very well, shown by the fact that the aerial part of the plant is vigorous in the middle of winter. * Used in traditional medicine for thousands
of years and still widely used today, the dried root of Salvia miltiorrhiza present various therapeutic benefits on the body and mind (Figure 1). It is considered to be a genuine concentrate of ‘good health’ molecules. Among the properties described in traditional Chinese medicine, red sage is believed to be able to improve blood circulation, and to treat cardiovascular, cerebral, hepatic and even some skin diseases. It is widely used in pharmaceutical treatments and also in cosmetic products because of its essential role in the health and beauty of the skin.1
www.personalcaremagazine.com As a result of its properties of adaptability to
the harshest environmental conditions and its medicinal benefits, red sage appeared to Silab as a natural raw material of great interest to treat skin discomfort and help reactive skin to cope with unfavourable environmental stimuli. The red sage selected by the company is a GMO-free plant and its supply chain is traceable back to China and respects the laws of biodiversity. In addition, for the transformation of this raw material, Silab paid particular attention to the criteria of eco-design. Rich in phenolic compounds, salvianolic acid-type phenolic compounds, the Salvia miltiorhizza active is obtained via an environment-friendly industrial process by using a green solvent and biodegradable process adjuvants. For the first time, the company has investigated and demonstrated the capacity of red sage to modulate the skin’s neurobiology to provide a soothing effect.
A transversal action on the infernal trio of sensitive skin Various studies highlighted that intolerant skin results from a dysfunction of three biological components: neuronal hyper-reactivity (excessive response of nerve endings), altered barrier function and exacerbated inflammation (Figure 2).1,2,3
For a treatment to be effective, it must thus address these three aspects.
1. Neutralising neuronal hyper-reactivity Because of the existence of many sensorial symptoms in sensitive skin (burning, stinging,
ABSTRACT
Every day, external stimuli, such as climate and pollution, cause excessive reactions in sensitive skin. They are subjected to stinging sensations, redness, burning and tightness. Bio-inspired by the red sage, a plant used in traditional Chinese medicine and known for its high capacity to resist very low temperatures, Silab developed a natural active ingredient able to treat skin discomfort of sensitive skin by targeting for the first time the three biological components of skin sensitivity: neuronal hyper-reactivity, alteration of the barrier function and chronic inflammation.
pain and itching), Silab paid particular attention to the neurobiological aspect. Indeed, the skin and brain have a common embryological origin and so use the same language. The skin contains a network of nerve fibres involved in sensoriality. This function is ensured by a family of receptors called transient receptor potential (TRP)4,5
among
which (TRPV1) plays crucial role. Recent studies suggest that the reactions
of hypersensitive skin are intimately related to the innervation of the epidermis and the hyper-activation of TRPV1. This receptor is currently considered to be the reference marker of sensitive skin.3,6
Its inactivation is
therefore a prerequisite for the development of a soothing cosmetic active ingredient.
October 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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