SKIN CARE
TABLE 1: CLASSIFICATION OF PEPTIDES WITH EXAMPLES AND EFFECTS Peptide classification
Neurotransmitter-inhibitor
peptides Example: Acetyl-hexapeptide-8
Signal peptides Example: Palmitoyl-pentapetido-3
Carrier peptides Example: Cooper tripeptide
Enzyme inhibitor peptides Example: Acetyl tetra peptide
77 Effects
FGF-1 inhibits the release and effects of acetylcholine on synaptic connections. Preventive effect against formation of wrinkles and fine lines.
Transfer the signal to the cell to increase the synthesis
of collagen and elastin, slows down collagen hydrolysis and skin ageing process.
Facilitates the transport of elements, such as copper or magnesium, that are important for the skin and enzy- matic processes in the cell.
Directly or indirectly inhibit the action of MMP enzyme, responsible for defragmentation of collagen fibres and decomposition of collagen and elastin. Preventively slows down the skin ageing process.
mRNA-145
Suprabasal keratinocyte
mRNA-145
Basal cell
OCT4, SOX2, KLF4 Keratin K10 mRNA-145
OCT4, SOX2, KLF4 Keratin K14
p63 Figure 6: Self-renewal regulation via mRNA-145
20 18 16 14 12 10
2% Reproage peptide solution ■ 20 18
Non-treated ■ Placebo■ *** **
20 18 16 14 12
35-40 years old 50-55 years old
16 14 12
15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 Years
50-55 years old 35-40 years old
processes by self-regulation and the synthesis of melanin in the cell. The results of experimental studies show that the effects of Khavinson’s peptides are based on epigenetic regulation of gene expression, as well as on the synthesis of proteins of significance for the regulation of functional activities of the cell. Even though there are more than 30
different peptides being used in cosmetic products, some of the most common ones are acetyl-hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, copper-tripeptide and acetyl- tetrapeptide. Acetyl-hexapeptide-8 is a peptide of
synthetic origin that acts by inhibiting the effects of acetylcholine on the synaptic connections, which results in the inhibition of depolarisation of muscle fibres at the neuro-muscular junction and consequential attenuation of muscle contractions. It has been shown that acetyl-
hexapeptide-8 causes the reduction of micro-ribonucleic acid (mRNA)-145 at the cellular level. Acetyl-hexapeptide-8 therefore modulates the mRNA-145 with the aim to enhance the cell reprogramming so it would once again become an active base for progenitors and for the self-renewal to last longer. This is shown in Figure 6. The evaluation of inhibitory properties of this peptide via mRNA-145 was confirmed by direct mRNA quantification test. A placebo-controlled assessment of the
efficacy of a cosmetic product enriched with acetyl-hexapeptide-8 have shown positive results on skin renewal and skin regeneration. A total of 60 volunteers aged 18-55 were randomised into three groups. The results indicated that stratum corneum
was renewed and revitalised and the skin structure improved. Although the study size was small, a statistically significant difference has been observed between the control, placebo and non-treated groups of subjects.7 A significant decrease in the SCTT was
observed in control-group compared to placebo-controlled group. Skin was revitalised with an accelerated cell renewal. The measurements were taken on the forearm skin with the use of DHA staining. The skin surface characteristics were
analysed after twice daily application of cream containing 2% acetyl-hexapeptide-8 to one half of the face for 56 days compared to placebo. The area under the eye was selected for measurement taken by microtopography imaging system and average surface roughness (Sa) obtained (Figure 8). The skin looked smoother, with 41.3%
15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 Years
Figure 7: Assessment of epidermal self-renewal via calculation of Stratum corneum turnover time Source: 7, with the permission from the author
www.personalcaremagazine.com
decrease in roughness and less fine lines in 50-55 year-old volunteers, as detected by 3D image reconstruction (Figure 9). The reduction in surface irregularities can be seen as a tendency of the colour to change from blue to red, after application of the product. In a separate study aimed at assessing
skin radiance, a total of 19 volunteers took part, aged 35-55 years. The luminosity, i.e. the radiance of the skin has been confirmed by high-resolution photographic analysis, which
October 2021 PERSONAL CARE
SCTT (days)
SCTT (days)
SCTT (days)
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