52 1
SILICONES
formulation with other polymers that have the same function. This approach stresses the function
of a polymer in a formulation rather than the chemistry used to make it. If a polymer is in a formulation as a rheology modifier, the replacement chosen will be a wetting agent as well; the same goes for foaming agents or emulsifiers. This approach acknowledges that there are a variety of surface-active polymers that provide the same function in a formulation but may or may not share the same chemistries. In the aforementioned article by Dow, two
conditioners are compared using FF concepts: one containing naturally derived cat-hmHEC polymers, the other an amino-silicone polymer. The authors find a “comparable performance in wet combing and reduced breakage without causing build-up, achieving bio-derived content and performance”.1 The platform (Table 2) is the formulation, without the one ingredient being replaced. The effectiveness of this substitution relies upon the ability of the cat-hmHEC to function like the amino silicone in the platform formulation. All the interactions between raw materials and the final properties when applied to the hair are evaluated in one step. Only then is the determination of comparability made.
Conclusions The consumer is ultimately who gets to decide what products will be successful in the market. Consumers are constantly provided with information about a number of raw materials that may or may not be used in consumer products. Silicone polymers are one of the classes on
raw materials undergoing a contraction in the number of products the consumer is willing to accept. It is the formulator, however, who must be able to modify formulations efficiently to meet consumer demand. The use of MDF and FF provide the formulator with tools to approach re-formulations.
TABLE 1: FORMULATION 1 BOUNTIFUL BODY WASH6
Phase
A Water B
INCI Names
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BIS-PEG-8 PEG-8 Dimethicone
PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) Aqua (and) PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Propanediol C Sodium Chloride
w/w % 52.5 25.0 10.0 3.0
2.0
5.0 2.5
References 1. Suthiwangcharoen N., Delvallé C., Leal L., Golden S., Lavinaro G., Puthenmadom D. From nature to hair beauty: Biobased cationic/ hydrophobe-modified hydroxyethyl cellulose in hair conditioner, HPC 16(2) Mar Apr 2021
2.
http://www.scientificspectator.com/documents /Olenick%20Compilation/Ch%201%20 Dimethicone%20Soluble%20Polymers.pdf
PC
3.
http://www.scientificspectator.com/ documents/Olenick%20Compilation/Ch%20
TABLE 2: PLATFORM FORMULATION Phase
INCI Names
A Hydroxyethyl cellulose DI water
B Cetearyl alcohol
PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate
C D
Conditioning polymer* Tetrasodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol (and) methylisothiazolinone
30%20Min%20Dis%20Tech%202.pdf
4.
http://www.scientificspectator.com/ documents/Olenick%20Compilation/Ch%20 31%20Min%20Dis%20Tech%203.pdf
5.
https://ifscc.org/publications/videos-and- webinars/minimally-disruptive-formulation-in- skin-care-tony-olenick-webinar-29-april-2020/
6. Bountiful Body Wash, Technical Brochure, Siltech Corporation
7.
https://www.scconline.org/scc-webinars-innovating -with-minimally-disruptive-formulations-mdf/
w/w % 1.4
94.11 1.0
1.0
0.3-1.0 0.2
0.5
Note: *cat-hmHec polymer (0.3 w/w%): aminosilicone emulsion (1.0 w/w% silicone active)
PERSONAL CARE
October 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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