COVER STORY: ASHLAND
Biodegradable Water Resistance Gel
Denise Costrini, Hani Fares, and Jennifer O’Hara - Ashland
When consumers select sun care products for UV protection, water resistance is a key performance benefit that is also desired. Approximately 46% of new sun care product launches carry a water-resistance claim1
. Meanwhile, interest in
sustainable solutions continues to grow, with demand for biodegradability steadily increasing. Addressing the market need for more
sustainable water resistance, Antaron™ ECo gel is a biodegradable film former that delivers excellent water resistance in an easy to use format that creates lighter, non-greasy formulations. Antaron™ ECo gel starts with a globally
compliant film former that is based on sustainably sourced wood derived cellulose. This unique cellulose derivative provides excellent water resistance and light formula aesthetics. To make it easier for formulators to take full advantage of the benefits, we incorporated this unique cellulose derivative into a biodegradable sun care solvent. The resulting gel can easily be added into a formula, saving energy for formulators and during production.
Excellent water resistance from a biodegradable film former The AntaronTM
tradename has long represented
best-in-class water resistance. New AntaronTM ECo gel meets this performance standard while being biodegradable. Antaron™ ECo gel starts with a unique, nature-derived film former that was designed with a very specific molecular weight to provide excellent and reproducible water resistance. Antaron™ ECo gel maintains the SPF
protection after 80 minutes water immersion, as shown in Figure 1.
40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
October 2021 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
Hydrosheer™ technology Antaron™ ECo gel can be used in formulas designed for Hydrosheer™ technology. Hydrosheer™ technology was developed by Ashland to create water-resistant formulations that apply transparently on skin, even in the presence of water. This means that consumers may apply or reapply sunscreen at any time, without the need to dry off before application. Antaron™ ECo gel enables more appealing and convenient sun care formats, which will encourage application and reapplication for busy, active consumers.
Naturality & biodiversity in the cosmetics industry
Solid emollient bases for mineral sunscreens
Figure 2: Antaron™ ECo gel (shown in neat format)
Sustainability Antaron™ ECo gel has been classified as inherently biodegradable2
. Ashland sources cellulose from 35 35 35 21
suppliers that have active sustainability programs, conforming to the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) requirements such as zero deforestation practices. These programs include PEFC-certified suppliers and suppliers committed to FSC standards, which include forest management and chain of custody certifications. FSC-labelled sources provide third party accreditation that our wood cellulosics come from a supply chain that is managed in an environmentally and socially responsible way. Antaron™ Eco gel is also vegan suitable.
(no polymer) Control AntaronTM Cellulosic in ECo gel
Figure 1: in vivo SPF efficacy before and after 80 minute water immersion
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Ease-of-use The Antaron™ ECo gel format allows for shorter processing time and easier incorporation of an effective, water resistant cellulosic grade. Derived from sustainable cellulose, it is processed into a light-feeling, biodegradable sun care ester to yield a translucent, smooth gel. This gel can then be mixed in by formulators or manufacturing to achieve soft, light, non-tacky formulas. Antaron™ ECo gel is shown in Figure 2.
The soothing effect of a red sage active
Formulation inspiration Several starting formulations containing Antaron™ ECo gel are available from Ashland, providing examples of how it can be incorporated in different sun care formats and novel marketing concepts, including the ECo Reinforce Sun Balm SPF 40 formulation.
Conclusion Antaron™ ECo gel has been designed in response to market needs for effective, biodegradable water resistance ingredients. Derived from sustainable cellulose, Antaron™ ECo gel is a biodegradable film former that
delivers excellent water resistance in an easy to use format, enabling lighter, non-
greasy formulations. Discover more formulations or learn more about this globally compliant, vegan suitable ingredient on
ashland.com/ecogel.
Reference 1. Mintel Patent Watch: Sun Protection (October 2019), new sun care launches between Sept 2018 and August 2019
2. Has attained a sufficient level of biodegradation that meets the requirements for ‘ready’ or ‘inherent’ according to OECD or related methods such as, 301, 302, or 306. Or product has been assessed as being biodegradable based on a read-across to a chemical with similar structure or the product components have been analyzed for biodegradation potential.
PC
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Ashland 500 Hercules Road, Wilmington, DE 19808, USA
www.ashland.com
October 2021 PERSONAL CARE
after immersion before immersion
after immersion before immersion
SPF
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