SILICONES
neither resins nor silicone fluids are innately soluble in water, adding them into aqueous formulations can be troublesome and present many manufacturing issues. These resin blend emulsions were specifically designed to overcome the manufacturing hurdle of combining multiple immiscible materials, including hard to handle resins, by creating an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. This emulsion can help ease formulating work because it can be added to oil-in-water emulsion-based formulations with cold mix processing, while also maintaining stability.
Functional advantages of an emulsion Where resin blends are a great example of a multi-functional ingredient, the resin blend emulsion is an excellent example of one. Resin blend emulsions are easy-to-use since they are already ‘emulsified’ in water-based systems. Time and cost of development work can be reduced being that the ingredients are already emulsified and the addition of a surfactant is no longer necessary to create a homogenous product – the product is already formulated as a white, stable, emulsified material. Resin blend emulsions can be added
to existing water-based formulations to improve aesthetic properties as they feature all of the desirable benefits from low volatility, cyclic-free phenyltrimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate resins, along with the functionality and dispersability of an emulsion. The emulsified state also reduces the tackiness of the neat resin. Regarding hair care aesthetic benefits, resins are known as anti-frizz agents and for humidity resistance while Phenyltrimethicones offer enhanced shine, improved texture and a soft supple feel.
The big test Anti-frizz test method Testing was performed to determine the anti- frizz performance of a control, a resin blend, a D5-free resin blend, a D5-free resin blend
2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 1 2
55
Testing procedure The designated amount of anti-frizz ingredient was then evenly distributed through the hair sample. One sample was left without any anti-frizz product and determined to be the control. The width of the hair sample was measured (Figure 2). The hair samples were placed into a
humidity chamber. Temperature set at 70°C, humidity at 20% to simulate a standard hair dryer. The hair samples were then measured every hour over a four-hour period.
Testing results The results were calculated to determine the width of change in inches and the percentagechange over time. As indicated in Figure 3, the hair sample that
was treated with the cyclic-free resin blend, the resin blend emulsion and the anti-frizz formula containing the resin blend, emulsion had the best anti-frizz performance, presenting no change over the four hour test period.
1. Control 2. Resin blend emulsion
Figure 2: Anti-frizz performance of the control vs. the resin blend emulsion
emulsion and an anti-frizz product formulated with a D5-free resin blend emulsion (Figure 2) using specific hair samples. The samples were measured hourly over a four-hour period.
Sample preparation We prepared one-inch-wide hair samples (with clips) and calculated the weight of the hair by weighing the entire sample; then weighing the clip separately. The hair weight was finally determined by subtracting the weight of the clip from the total weight. Each hair sample was wetted completely, wrapped in a microfibre towel and ‘tapped’ dry.
0 hr■ 2 hr■ 4 hr■
Discussion As the results show, the resin blend in an emulsified state has proven not to affect the superior performance of the cyclic free resin blend. What can be concluded from the results is that when used in an anti-frizz capacity, the resin blend emulsion is a high performing, multi-functional ingredient that is both regulatory compliant and easy to use, manufacture and formulate with. Potential cost savings are also a possibility due to less time being needed to prepare the ingredients for formulation and eliminating the steps of handling the neat resin and adding a surfactant since the material is already emulsified. Being emulsified, the resin blend emulsion
is ready to be added to existing water- based formulations, on which many hair care products are based. Along with the emulsion and its ease of manufacture come the many desirable benefits that come with the blended materials including: anti-frizz, humidity resistance, volumiser, conditioning, shine, slip, treatment for dry and damaged hair, improved texture, imparts soft supple feel, enhanced shine, and is cyclic-free – making it regulatory compliant.
Control
Resin blend (D5)
Resin blend (Cyclic-free)
Figure 3: Anti-frizz performance over four-hour period
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Resin blend emulsion
(Cyclic-free) Anti-frizz
ingredient w/resin blend emulsion (Cyclic-free)
What is next? Resin blends also have a lot of benefits to offer for skin care formulations. Since one of the most desirable attributes of trimethylsiloxysilicate is its film forming properties, we will be testing another high performing resin blend emulsion, made from a Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate blend. The results will show how well the emulsion holds up to the film forming testing showing number of cycles to breakthrough, and the abrasion and transfer resistance of a makeup setting spray.
Reference 1 King, Doug. “Novel Trimethylsiloxysilicate Blends and Their Use in Personal Care Applications.”, 19 August. 2019
October 2021 PERSONAL CARE
PC
Hair width (IN)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
