32 NATURALS
standards include: COSMOS which was created by five major standard setting organisations and sets important certification requirements for organic and natural cosmetics products; EcoVadis, which provides holistic sustainability ratings service of companies (CSR); and Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT), which promotes the ‘sourcing with respect’ of ingredients that come from biodiversity.
A commitment to biodiversity Respect of people and the planet as well as sustainability and biodiversity preservation have been at the heart of Alban Muller International’s global naturality commitment since its inception, over 40 years ago. This covers the whole process from raw material sourcing to manufacturing practices while ensuring full traceability. Below are just a few examples: ■ Over 50% of the plants used are from local cultivated fields. Their cultivation and collection follow GACP and biodiversity preservation. Thanks to the company expertise in sourcing and manufacturing plant extracts, with optimal management of all critical steps (Figure 1), high production yields are obtained, therefore minimising the initial quantity of plants needed, thus the necessary size of cultivation fields. ■ Repulpami® ER, a COSMOS-certified ingredient, is a combination of extracts of baobab (Adansonia digitata) fruit and white hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa) flower sourced from fair trade in Kaffrine and Kedougou regions in Senegal. The plants are manually harvested by a group of women producers, totally respecting the environment. They work in compliance with the rules of organic farming (Figure 2). The work of this group of women producers enables investment in school fees and the education of children (Figure 5). ■ Cytokalmine® EC, a COSMOS-certified ingredient, is an extract of organic pomegranate (Punica granatum) fruit sourced from eco- valorisation of the fruit pericarp, which is a by-product of the food industry. The pericarp, traditionally considered as industrial waste, is kept and reused to obtain extracts for cosmetic
100% ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL 75% 50% 25% 0% 0 25 45 Figure 6: Sustainability certification by EcoVadis PERSONAL CARE October 2021 65 EcoVadis score 85 100
Figure 5: Senegalese children during a school activity (courtesy of Diongoma)
purposes using eco-responsible extraction and drying techniques. This approach is part of a process of encouraging the Circular Economy with many benefits that foster biodiversity preservation (Figure 3). ■ The company has allocated 20,000 m2
of
gardens dedicated to biodiversity around its production site. These biodiversity gardens allow to finally recycle the factory water to send it back pristine clear to nature. The hedges provide shelter for many species of birds. The flowered meadows, home to pheasants and hares, bring food for the bees living in our hives (Figure 4). ■ The company is committed to full traceability and transparency with third party controls, audits and certifications, such as COSMOS, EcoVadis (2021 top platinum level – Figure 6), and UEBT.
Conclusion With the accelerated rising consumer demand for naturality and biodiversity, brands sustainable commitment and practices will not only benefit them by meeting consumer
All companies rated by EcoVadis in this industry■
expectations, capitalising on market potential and getting them a competitive advantage, but will also future-proof their business, ensuring continuous operations and business success. It is also the right strategy to foster positive environmental and social impact. Note: Alban Muller is now part of Croda International expanding Croda’s portfolio of sustainable active ingredients for customers in personal care markets.
References 1. Yvon P. Navigating buzzwords to address demand for naturality. Personal Care North America 2020; 3(3):31
2. Yvon P. Sustainability & natural cosmetic ingredients. Happi 2020: 34-36
3. Alvarez E. How the pandemic changed consumers views toward sustainability? HPC Today, Dec. 2020
4. Yvon P. Natural beauty in the “new normal”. Euro-Cosmetics Oct 2020: 10-12
5. Biodiversity in the cosmetics sector. European Business & Biodiversity Campaign fact sheet, 2020
6. Global Assessment on Biodiversity. Intergovernmental Science-Policy Platform on Biodiversity & Ecosystem Services report, May 2019
7. Smith DL et al. Signaling in the phytomicrobiome: breadth and potential. Front. Plant Sci. 2015; 6:709.
8. Biodiversity barometer. UEBT 2020 9. Good Agricultural and Collection Practices for medicinal plants. World Health Organization guidelines, 2003
10. Good Agricultural and Collection Practices for starting materials of herbal origin. EU Medicines Agency, 2006
11. Weisbrod A. et al. Framework for evaluating sustainably sourced renewable materials. Supply Chain Forum: An International Journal 2016; 17:4, 259-272
12. Creating a more beautiful world – Sustainability report. Personal Care Products Council 2019
13. Sustainability is critical for consumer brands. CGS Retail & sustainability survey, 2019
14. Is biodiversity a must in beauty? Happi 2020: 12
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