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SKIN CARE


dermatology and adverse effects. J. Dermatolog. Treat. 2017;28:684–96


5. Duester G. Retinoic acid synthesis and signalling during early organogenesis. Cell. 2008;134:921–31


6. Zizola CF, Frey SK, Jitngarmkusol S, et al. Cellular retinol-binding protein type I (CRBP-I) regulates adipogenesis. Mol. Cell. Biol. 2010;30:3412–20


7. Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2000;114:480–6


8. Hyung SJ, Deroo S, Robinson CV. Retinol and retinol-binding protein stabilize transthyretin via formation of retinol transport complex. ACS Chem. Biol. 2010;5:1137–46


9. Bojarowicz H, Płowiec A. Influence of vitamin A on skin condition. Probl. Hig. Epidemiol. 2010;91:352–6


10. Sorg O, Kuenzli S, Kaya G, et al. Proposed mechanisms of action for retinoid derivatives in the treatment of skin aging. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2005;4:237–44


11. Sorg O., Saurat JH. Topical retinoids in skin ageing: a focused update with reference to sun-induced epidermal vitamin A deficiency. Dermatology. 2014;228:314–25


12. Dong D, Ruuska SE, Levinthal DJ, Noy N. Distinct roles for cellular retinoic acid- binding proteins I and II in regulating signalling by retinoic acid. J Biol Chem. 1999;274:23695–8


13. Shao Y, He T, Fisher GJ, et al. Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2017;39:56–65


14. Geiger J, Hommel L, Harms M., Saurat JH. Oral 13- cis retinoic acid is superior to 9-cis retinoic acid in sebosuppression in human beings. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 1996;34:513–5


15. Rossetti D, Kielmanowicz MG, Vigodman S, et al. A novel anti-ageing mechanism for retinol: induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fibre formation. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2011;33:62–9


16. Sorg O, Antille C, Kaya G, et al. Retinoids in cosmeceutical. Dermatol. Ther. 2006;19:289–96


17. Fisher GJ, Wang ZQ, Datta SC, et al. Pathophysiology of premature skin aging induced by ultraviolet light. N. Engl. J. Med. 1997;337:1419–28


18. Philips N, Auler S, Hugo R, Gonzalez S. Beneficial regulation of matrix metalloproteinases for skin health. Enzyme Res. 2011;8:427285


19. Quan T, Shao Y, He T, et al. Reduced expression of connective tissue growth factor (CTGF/CCN2) mediates collagen loss in chronologically aged human skin. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2010;130:415–24


20. Aldag C, Nogueira Teixeira D, Leventhal PS. Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol. 2016;9:411–9


21. Irby CE, Yentzer BA, Feldman SR. A review of ADP in the treatment of acne vulgaris. Drugs. 2008;43:421–4


www.personalcaremagazine.com CH2 O ADAPALENE


Fourth generation (pyranones) O


O O


O O CH O SELETINOID G Figure 2: Structural formulas of selected retinoids


First generation – natural retinoids, monoaromatic compounds obtained by modifying polar groups at the end and side chain of the polyene vitamin that do not act selectively – retinol (vitamin A) and its metabolites – retinal, tretinoin, isotretinoin. Second generation – monoaromatic retinoids, synthetic compounds in which the cyclohexene ring is replaced by a benzene ring; synthetic analogues of vitamin A (etretinate, acitretin). Third generation – polyaromatic retinoids formed as a result of cyclization of polyene side chain and characterised by selective activity towards receptor (arotinoid, adapalene, tazarotene)4


22. Nyirady J, Lucas C, Yusuf M, et al. The stability of tretinoin gel microsphere 0.1% Cutis. 2002;70:295–8


23. Ascenso A, Ribeiro H, Marques HC, et al. Is tretinoin still a key agent for photoaging management? Mini. Rev. Med. Chem. 2014;14:629–41


24. Drealos ZD. Kosmeceutyki. Wrocław: Elesevier Urban & Partner; 2011


25. Scientific Committee of Consumer Safety – SCCS. Rousselle C. Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) e Final version of the Opinion on Vitamin A (retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate) in cosmetic products. Regul. Toxicol. Pharmacol. 2017;84:102–4


26. Creidi P, Humbert P. Clinical use of topical retinaldehyde on photoaged skin. Dermatology. 1999;199:49–52.


27. O’Byrne SM, Blaner WS. Retinol and retinyl esters: biochemistry and physiology. J. Lipid. Res. 2013;54:1731–43


28. Rendon MI, Barkovic S. Clinical evaluation of a 4% hydroquinone + 1% retinol treatment regimen for improving melasma and photodamage in Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI.


J. Drugs Dermatol. 2016;15:1435–41


29. Hsieh PW, Hung CF, Lin CH, et al. Anti-melasma codrug of retinoic acid assists cutaneous absorption with attenuated skin irritation. Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm. 2017;14:154– 63


30. Li WH, Wong HK, Serrano J, et al. Topical stabilized retinol treatment induces the expression of HAS genes and HA production in human skin in vitro and in vivo. Arch. Dermatol. Res. 2017;309:275–83


31. Antille C, Tran C, Sorg O, Saurat JH. Penetration and metabolism of topical retinoids in ex vivo organ-cultured full-thickness human skin explants. Skin. Pharmacol. Physiol. 2004;17:124–8


32. Chorilli M, Rigon RB, Calixto G., et al. rheological characterization and safety evaluation of non-ionic lamellar liquid crystalline systems containing retinyl palmitate. J. Biomed. Nanotechnol. 2016;12:394–403


33. Brandaleone H, Papper E. The effect of the local and oral administration of cod liver oil on the rate of wound healing in vitamin A-deficient and normal rats. Ann. Surg. 1941;114(4):791-798


October 2021 PERSONAL CARE H2 CO ETRETINATE Third generation (poly-aromatics) COOH N S TAZAROTENE RETINOL First generation (non-aromatics) CH3 OH CHO COOH


23


RETINOLDEHYDE


TRETINOIN


COOH ISOTRETINOIN ALITRETINOIN COOH Second generation (momo-aromatics) COOC1 H2 H2 CO ACITRETIN O OE2 COOH


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