76 SKIN CARE
anti-ageing programmes, which was met with interest and attention.
Epigenetic review Epigenetics (meaning above genetic information) is a biological discipline concerned with the regulation of gene expression and processes taking place on the cellular level. Epigenetics is connected to the interpretation of genetic information, as well as the potential for reversible changes of gene expression. As such, epigenetics has a vast potential for the regulation of biological processes at cellular level. Epigenetic mechanisms of regulation of
gene expression ought to be fully understood, in order to translate the knowledge to the action, uses and anti-ageing effects of peptides at the cellular level. Authors such as Khavinson, Micansa and claim that it is possible to
Maryanovich5,6
affect the ageing process by changing the gene expression via transcription modulators, as shown in Figure 3. According to Professor Vladimir Khavinson,
peptides of animal origin, after prolonged use in a form of an adequately formulated preparation, are capable of expressing highly specific biological activity, They can also stimulate protein and synthesis regenerate tissue, thereby affecting the main functions of target organs.5,6
Skin ageing process The epidermis, the outmost layer of our skin, is one of the most active tissues in our body, with high regeneration potential. The cycle of skin epidermal regeneration is typically 30 days long. It is organised in four stratified layers
of keratinocytes, with different degrees of maturation. Viewed from the innermost layer of the epidermis, these layers are stratum basal, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum and stratum corneum as the uppermost layer Keratinocytes pass through all layers of the
epidermis, while at the same time, they are subjected to morphological and functional changes as part of the differentiation process. At the top of the stratum corneum, old cells
Young skin Desquamation mRNA Protein Translation
DNA miRNA Figure 3: mRNA as modulator of gene transcription, leading to protein synthesis or inhibition
Attenuation
Maturation
Suprabasal layer
Proliferation
Basal layer
Stem cell
Keratinocytes
Keratinocytes
TA cell
TA cell
Figure 4: Epidermal regeneration Source: 7 with permission from the author
are constantly released and new, differentiated cells are created so that the stratum corneum maintains its integrity and structure (Figure 4). However, the regenerative potential, as
well as the functionality of the epidermis, change as we age. Studies have shown that the reduced efficiency of basal cells causes the deceleration of epidermal regeneration, accompanied by visible signs of skin ageing, such as wrinkles and fine lines, increased pigmentation, roughness and a loss of radiance.
Mature skin Generally speaking, functional skin changes
and reduced microcirculation in the epidermis and dermis may occur around the age of around 35. Furthermore, synthesis of collagen and elastin by skin fibroblasts is reduced as well as their functionality in maintaining extracellular matrix homeostasis, skin hydration, endocrine and immune function. The decomposition and defragmentation
of collagen and elastin fibres is regulated by matrix metalloproteinase enzyme (MMP), the amount of which is naturally increased in mature skin types.7
It has been shown that
Separation of epidermis and dermis
Grouped collagen fibres Blood vessels
Narrowing of blood vessels
Loss and separation of collagen fibres
the amount of hyaluronic acid in skin tissue is reduced, which additionally compromises the epidermal structure, its hydration and elasticity. With this in mind, we can understand the significance of use of hyaluronic acid in skin anti-ageing products, which as such provides a very good degree of skin hydration and slows down the skin ageing process.
Use of bioactive peptide in anti-ageing cosmetic products An increase in the use of peptides in personal care products has been noticeable over the past twenty years, as part of the efforts to slow down skin ageing processes, by stimulating regulation of self-renewal at the cellular level. The effects of Khavinson’s short chain
Figure 5: Comparison of young vs. mature skin type PERSONAL CARE October 2021
peptides were the first to be recognised, and they relate to preventing or treating the skin ageing process by regulating the metabolic
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