82 SKIN MICROBIOME
insights about the skin’s eco-system. We have come to a point when we cannot talk about the skin as a colony of isolated cells anymore. Even the theory of skin as an isolated organ is starting to look archaic now, since the concept of the neuro-immuno-cutaneous system (NICS)2
came
into being with all the evidence of connections between the nervous system, the immune system and the skin sharing biochemical language and numerous intercellular contacts. To add more complexity to this equation, we need only to mention that the diversity of the microorganism community on the skin is affected by the skin’s individual characteristics and numerous external and internal factors, such as age, location, lifestyle, climate and even owning pets. So, the question is, how can we speak about
this complex scientific matter using correct language and terminology while still being understood by the people with non-scientific backgrounds? The challenge of professional communication with skin therapists is multi-facetted. The difference in the levels of professional education between skin therapists is significant, not only because of insufficient teaching of biology and microbiology in the national and international educational programmes, but also because of all the varying ways to enter into the profession. Among skin therapists you might find a former veterinary geneticist, molecular biologist or criminal expert, but also an ex-dancer, shop assistant or makeup artist. And all of them could be employed at the same clinic or salon, so a brand needs to find a way to communicate with all of them and through them with their customers without too much being lost on the way.
Guidelines Meder Beauty’s 12 years’ experience of communication with beauty professionals in more than 30 countries inspired an informal guideline on the microbiome communication. Local culture: Microbiome communication
could be controversial because it is closely related to local hygiene traditions. The message saying ‘dirty’ skin is healthy is hard to accept for therapists in some countries with a rigorous approach to hygiene. Before using words such as ‘dirty’ in your message, make sure to discuss it with local skin therapists and opinion leaders. Professional education: Aesthetic
educational systems vary widely across the world. Some national regulatory systems are stricter than others. For example, in Russia, beauticians can only be professionally qualified if they have a medical nurse degree, while in the UK a basic beauty course at a local college is sufficient to qualify for an aesthetician job doing basic facials in a beauty salon. Japanese beauticians study in the professional schools for two years, while in Poland it could be a four-year study course for a professional degree. It is much easier to explain microbiome theory in a country where beauticians studied longer and have at least some medical background. Press communication: This strongly affects
the style of communication with skin therapists and could create a lot of misunderstanding if
PERSONAL CARE October 2021
the brand message contradicts it. It is always helpful to scan the latest articles in local magazines and local beauty blog entries for a better understanding of predominant style and terminology. A clear and simple message on how
microbiome-friendly products work helps a lot, no matter where you are. A FAQ document for therapists is very
helpful in their communication with customers. What are prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotics, metabiotics? What is a difference between pro- and prebiotics? What kind of substance could be a prebiotic? What is the difference between oral and topical probiotics? These and dozens of other questions therapists will hear from their customers and if the brand does not provide them with correct and simple answers they will definitely struggle. Here are some recent media enquiries as an
example of press questions: ■ Data shows a rise of acne/sensitivity/ rosacea/eczema/psoriasis - do you think this is linked to the amount of time spent being indoors? And why? ■ Is there a link to the fact that we have not been privy to lots of good bacteria that we get from nature and from seeing other people? If so, please explain this in detail. Please include an explanation of what the skin’s microbiome is. ■ Which bacteria strains are good for the skin and which are not? ■ Does everyone need different bacteria or at different amounts – or are there bacteria strains that are universally good and bad for the skin? ■ Microbiome-supportive skin care - what it is and how is it thought to work? Is there science to back the claims and what are the reported benefits of feeding your face with pre-, post- and probiotics. ■ When it comes to new wave probiotics - how do they differ to ones that have come before? Is there new new science and
technology to show they are ‘live’ while the old offerings were not? ■ Are there new forms of bacteria being used in skin care? ■ Are there any new studies that prove how beneficial probiotic skincare is? ■ How do you know if you need probiotic skincare?, Are there signs to look out for, e.g. inflammation, breakouts that will not go away etc? Or should we all be including probiotics in our daily regime and why? ■ What should you consider when purchasing probiotic skincare? ■ And what about pre-, and postbiotics – what are these exactly and why are they important?
Conclusion These are only some of the questions to answer and we can safely suggest that aesthetic therapists get the same questions from their curious customers, bloggers and press. Hoping to get simple and science- based answers to all these questions from any beautician is unrealistic and it is the job of the brand offering microbiome-friendly solutions to educate therapists and retail sellers, provide them with a collection of learning materials, motivate them to learn and participate in conferences, master classes and online training. This is the only way to avoid misunderstanding. Professional communication is the key to a successful promotion of innovative skin care in salons and clinics across the world.
References 1. Edgar J, Han S. The Best Skin-Care Products Infused With Probiotics,
www.allure.com October 2020
2. Misery L. Le système neuro-immuno-cutané (SNIC) [Neuro-immuno-cutaneous system (NICS)]. Pathol Biol (Paris). 1996;44(10):867-74.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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