72 MARINE INGREDIENTS 0.5
14% average improvement
0.4 * 0.3 0.2 Day 0 Day 14 Day 28
Average R0 parameter ± SE at different experimental times (n=20, *= p value <0.05).
Day 56 * * Day 0 Day 56
Figure 7: Firmness study
Skin from volunteers’ cheeks was measured with ‘a tape stripping test’ by means of Corneofix® F20. After stick and peel 10 times, two enzymatic reactions were evaluated, the ferric reducing ability (FRAP assay) and lipid peroxidation (MAD assay). Results showed that natural origin carotenoid rich delivery system boosted the skin antioxidant capacity of 100% of volunteers. Another study was performed where a cream
containing 3% natural origin carotenoid-rich delivery system, applied for 15 days on one forearm chosen by randomisation. At day 15, a specific concentration of tanning solution (DHA) was applied under semi-occlusive patch for 24 hours on both forearms. The following 14 days the product was applied in the same initial conditions. Afterwards, ITA value was measured by Colorimeter® CL 400 on two areas (treated and non-treated forearm), at days 16–28. The higher the value implies lower pigmentation. Firmness was assessed by the equipment
Cutometer® dual MPA 580 under the cheeks’ surface using a vacuum (450 mbar). The measurements were performed with 10 cycles of two seconds of suction and two seconds of relaxation. Natural origin carotenoid-rich delivery system improved skin firmness of 94% of volunteers. Skin samples treated and non-treated with
CONTROL
NOT IRRADIATED NOT TREATED
a 3% natural origin carotenoid rich delivery system cream for 24 hours were incubated for 30 minutes with DCFH-DA at 40°C. Afterwards the skin samples were irradiated with blue light (= 468nm) for four hours. Control and test samples were observed by optical microscopy using fluorescence filters to evidence the presence of ROS. Figure 8 shows the visualisation of ROS in fluorescent marked skin explants, non-irradiated and non-treated: irradiated and non-treated and irradiated and treated with the natural origin carotenoid rich delivery system. Red fluorescence indicates the presence of ROS. When quantifying the level of ROS in the
skin due to blue light irradiation, natural origin carotenoid rich delivery system displayed a 90% reduction in ROS compared to the non-treated control.
Conclusion Algae have the potential to offer a powerful and multifunctional effect on skin. It has been demonstrated that N. gaditana, a rich source of omega-3 EPA, I. galbana, an abundant source of omega-3 DHA, and H. Pluvialis, a carotenoid-rich alga have the capability to reach their full potential as a skin care active when in a Bicosome double-encapsulation delivery system. The Bicosome both stabilises the algae actives
CONTROL
BLUE LIGHT IRRADIATED NOT TREATED
and delivers them to the epidermis, where they best exert their benefits.
References 1. Starckx, Senne. A place in the sun - Algae is the crop of the future, according to researchers in Geel. Flanders Today, Retrieved 8 December, 2012
2. Tanghetti E. The Role of Inflammation in the Pathology of Acne. J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol. 2013; 6(9): 27–35
3. Weiss E, Katta R. Diet and rosacea: the role of dietary change in the management of rosacea. Dermatol. Pract. Concept 2017; 7(4): 31–37
4. Shaw, Jonathan. Raw and Red-Hot. Could inflammation be the cause of myriad chronic conditions? Harvard Magazine, May-June, 2019
5. Serhan CN. Pro-resolving lipid mediators are leads for resolution physiology. Nature 2014;510 (7503), 92–101
6. Basil & Levy. Specialized pro-resolving mediators: endogenous regulators of infection and
inflammation.Nat. Rev. Immunol. 2016; 16 (1), 51–67
7. Shah MM, Liang Y, Cheng JJ, Daroch M. Astaxanthin-Producing Green Microalga Haematococcus pluvialis: From Single Cell to High Value Commercial Products. Front. Plant. Sci. 2016; 28(7): 531
BLUE LIGHT IRRADIATED AND TREATED WITH BICOALGAE XT
PC
Figure 8: Blue light study PERSONAL CARE October 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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