54 SILICONES


Resin blend emulsion for user-friendly anti-frizz


Stella O’Neill - AB Specialty Silicones, US


The hair care industry is known for its innovation and continuous efforts to improve ingredients and their benefits. For this reason, multi-functional ingredients have gained in popularity. They also meet other market demands, such as ease of formulation and meeting EU regulatory requirements. With this in mind, we set out to manufacture a cosmetic ingredient that met as many of these needs as possible: high performing, multi-functional, compliant with EU regulations, and easy to formulate with. Can one ingredient have it all?


Where it all began: the resin blend Although the use of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins as a multi-functional ingredient in hair applications has a long history of safety, the handling of the neat resins can cause issues in manufacturing, due to the generation of dust and a lengthy dissolution time. These negative factors led to the introduction of resin blends, where the neat resin is already incorporated into a carrier fluid that can be volatile or non- volatile and varies depending on the desired benefits.


Regulatory compliance & performance Practically, the next step was to determine how these materials could overcome the regulatory hurdle. Growing environmental safety concerns surrounding cyclopentasiloxane, commonly known as D5, warranted testing to determine


Trimethylsiloxysilicate


Anti-frizz agent Humidity resistance Volumiser Conditioning Shine Slip


Conditioning For dry/damaged hair Soft/supple feel Improves texture Low residue/build up Shine enhancer


Phenyltrimethicone Figure 1: Evolution of a resin blend emulsion & its benefits PERSONAL CARE October 2021


if the blends using volatile carriers had similar performance while avoiding pending regulatory issues. The results for the cyclic-free resin blend with the INCI name Phenyltrimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate showed that it outperformed its D5 counterpart in all testing including as an anti-frizz additive. This particular blend adds multiple benefits to both hair and skin care formulations. Furthermore, with 0.1% w/w D5, Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate is a suitable ingredient option for formulators who want to reduce or eliminate cyclopentasiloxane from their products due to regulatory concerns, while also taking advantage of improved benefits over what are offered by a conventional resin or resin blend. As a side note, various skin care


testing showed that Phenyltrimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate also out- performed the industry staple with the INCI name Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate with higher abrasion resistance, higher transfer resistance and higher cycles to breakthrough. These results show that Phenyltrimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate has superior performance and make it a great option for applications where shine and organic compatibility are desired such as lipsticks, eye liners and sun care products. Further information and testing details are available in a previous publication.1


ABSTRACT


The purpose of this paper is to illustrate the development of a TMS resin blend emulsion, its extreme ease of formulation, regulatory compliance, and performance as an anti-frizz agent. The resin blend, Phenyltrimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate, has proven to outperform the industry staple, Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate. The emulsion of the same blend maintains an equal level of performance as its non-emulsion resin blend counterpart, when tested for efficacy both as an anti-frizz agent and when formulated into an anti-frizz formulation.


Eliminates handling the neat resin and its manufacturing issues caused by dust and a lengthy dissolution time


Regulatory compliant Resin blend


Already emulsified: O/W Emulsion Ready for use in aqueous systems Easily dispersible Less formulation work Ease of use/manufacture


Resin blend emulsion


Room for improvement Whereas Phenyltrimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate eliminated the need for handling the neat resin, is high-performing and offers D5 regulatory compliance, there was still room for improvement. The R&D team then developed a cyclic free resin blend emulsion to further simplify formulating and manufacturing efforts – and then gauged its performance compared to the resin blend itself. With anti-frizz performance as the initial benchmark, the resin blend, the cyclic free resin blend, the cyclic free resin blend emulsion as well as an anti-frizz formulation using the cyclic free resin blend emulsion underwent testing to determine their performance over a four hour period. Although resin blend emulsions are currently limited in choice and availability in the personal care marketplace, theoretically they should be a game-changer in terms of incorporating resins into water based formulations – which most hair and skin care products are. The big question needed answering though, is at what cost: would the resin blend’s superior performance be sacrificed for ease of formulation and manufacture when presented as an emulsion?


Manufacturing advantages of an emulsion Emulsions are often developed to lessen a manufacturing burden, making the incorporation of multiple insoluble materials into a formulation more user-friendly as well as cost-effective. In this instance, since


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92