ANTI-AGEING
New approach to suppressing wrinkles
Yukiko Fujita, Kazal Boron Biswas, Arunasiri Iddamalgoda - Ichimaru Pharcos, Japan
The formation of wrinkles is a typical ageing phenomenon that is characterised by the acceleration of the decomposition of the extracellular matrix (ECM) in the dermis. In general, wrinkles are formed because of natural ageing, dryness, UV-rays, etc.1,2
As natural ageing and
photo-ageing are accompanied by the deformation of collagen and elastic fibres in the dermis, it is believed that wrinkles are formed by the hardening and decrease in number of these fibres.2,3 It is known that the decomposition of ECM
components in the dermis is caused by the protein degradation action of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), especially MMP-1. The production of MMPs has been reported to be increased by factors secreted from keratinocytes called senescence- associated secretory phenotypes (SASP).4 In addition, the thinning of the dermis
caused by ageing is characterised by accelerated decomposition of collagen fibres in the dermis and the promotion of the production of SASP factor is believed to be involved with the advance of dermal thinning.5,6
Even though dermal thinning caused
by natural ageing is involved in the formation of wrinkles, its detailed mechanism has not yet been clarified. Adenosine 5’-triphosphate (ATP) in cells is used as the energy source in them.7,8
It has also been
reported that ATP is released into the extracellular environment due to environmental stress factors, such as UVB.9
various P2 receptors on the membrane of NHEKs to generate SASP11
, so we have considered the possibility that there may be a relationship between
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PME ** ** Extracellular ATP (eATP) functions as
one of the major factors that induce SASP in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs).10,11 eATP is known as a ‘danger signal’ as it activates
Figure 1: Peppermint (Mentha piperita L.)
eATP in the epidermis and the decomposition of ECM in the dermis. In this study, we have verified the mechanism of the increase in the eATP level as well as dermal thinning seen with natural ageing, while focusing on the interaction between the epidermis and dermis. Ichimaru Pharcos has developed peppermint
leaf extract (PME), whose trade name is SpringMint, as a raw cosmetic ingredient that acts on the mechanism described above and shows wrinkle improvement effects. PME was sourced from a JAS-certified organic peppermint (Mentha piperita L., Figure 1). Peppermint leaves were extracted in 1,3-butylene glycol derived from sugar cane to produce PME. Multiple active fractions with high amount of rosmarinic acid (RA) and luteolin-7-O- glucuronide (LG) were obtained.
NB (-)
AD (-)
AD (+)
Figure 2: Comparison of eATP level between
NB & AD in NHEK, & the effect of PME Results are expressed as mean ±S.E. (Student’s t-test, n=6; **: p<0.05). NB: Newborn; AD: Adult.
Testing PME In order to evaluate the change in the level of eATP generated by natural ageing, we compared the level of eATP released from NHEKs derived from newborns (NB) and adults (AD). It became apparent that the level of eATP derived from NHEK (AD) was significantly greater than that from NHEK (NB). It was also found that 0.1% PME could significantly reduce the level of eATP released from NHEK (AD) (Figure 2). To assess the effect of PME against stress
factors, three cell models – for dryness stress, high pH stress and UVB stress - were prepared to evaluate a wide range of environmental stresses. NHEK (AD) was used for the evaluation of dryness stress and high pH stress, and NHEK (NB) was used for the evaluation of UVB stress.
www.personalcaremagazine.com ABSTRACT
Skin-thinning in aged skin is considered an important factor in the formation of wrinkles. Due to natural ageing of the epidermal keratinocytes, there is a remarkable production of senescence- associated secretory phenotype (SASP) factor, which induces matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in dermal fibroblasts, resulting in dermal thinning. Meanwhile, extracellular ATP (eATP) is known to induce the production of SASP factors, but the relationship between eATP and natural ageing is unknown. In this study, we showed the relationship between the increase of eATP in the epidermis and the dermal thinning seen with natural ageing. Peppermint leaf extract (PME) effectively suppressed the rise in eATP concentration due to natural ageing and environmental stress. Furthermore, PME suppressed skin thinning and improved various wrinkles, such as crow’s feet and neck wrinkles. These results suggest that PME is an anti- ageing material that suppresses eATP- mediated dermal thinning and effectively improves wrinkles in many areas.
The level of eATP significantly increased in the
dryness stress group, high pH stress group, and UVB stress group as compared to the no stress groups. The increase was significantly suppressed by processing the samples with PME (Figure 3). Analysis of the components of PME showed
that it was rich in RA and LG. The concentrations of these used in this study was adjusted to that equivalent to 0.1% of PME. RA and LG significantly inhibited the eATP level in NHEK (AD) induced by dry stress (Figure 4). This indicates that RA and LG are the active ingredients in SpringMint.
Human clinical study We carried out human trials on middle-aged and elderly test subjects, specifically 14 Japanese male and female people aged from 30 to 69 (average age: 48.4). The test subjects applied a lotion containing 1% PME and a placebo lotion (in which PME was replaced with a solvent) on the left and right sides of their face and neck, respectively. The test subjects applied the lotions twice a day (morning and night) over 12 weeks. Derma Lab Combo can evaluate the thickness
October 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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(Luminescence unit) eATP level
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