NATURALS
is an international agreement that aims to ensure that the international trade in wildlife does not threaten wild populations of plants and animals. Today, approximately 30,000 species of plants are listed under CITES.
Natural cosmetic products & biodiversity Biodiversity preservation is a business driver... Biodiversity is not only an ecological and social responsibility topic but also a business necessity. It is an important source for ideation in the development of innovative natural cosmetic ingredients and products. In their natural environment (natural
soil conditions with its nutrients and living organisms, phytomicrobiome,7
outside climatic
conditions, etc.), plants are renewable, non- polluting smart factories producing thousands of secondary metabolites that have many effective cosmetic applications (antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-microbial, etc.). A company’s ability to continuously develop new natural products to address consumer demand depends on conserving biodiversity. In addition, consumers want to know where the formulation ingredients come from and what sourcing practices have been deployed. They expect fair and regenerative sourcing practices.8
... an integral part of product design The potential impact on biodiversity needs to be considered as early as the product ideation and design stage of the R&D process. Legal compliance to local regulations and international conventions, such as the Nagoya Protocol or CITES is a pre-requisite. Sourcing the relevant primary raw material, such as plants, is the first step in the development of a natural cosmetic ingredient. Responsible and ethical sourcing practices for the collection of wild plants or harvesting cultivated plants, without harming the natural environment and its local communities is required to preserve biodiversity. Compliance with Good Agricultural and
Collection Practices (GACP) will support this goal.9,10
This includes five critical aspects: not Figure 3: Circular beauty for sustainable innovation
over-harvesting in the wild (collection superior to the natural production capacity); soil regeneration and optimal land use for cultured plants; respect for the natural ecosystems; no pollution of the ground following the use of synthetically produced pesticides and fertilisers; and economic participation of the local gatherers or farmers, providing them with socioeconomic stability. Even at the end of the product life, negative effects on biodiversity can happen. Ingredients end up in waste fields or sewage water, possibly ending up in rivers and oceans, and affecting aquatic life; ingredient biodegradability is a must.
...and a criterion in ingredient supplier selection Procurement departments in partnership with R&D teams are heavily involved with the brands’ overall sustainability goals, and particularly with biodiversity preservation. They establish sourcing standards and best practices, with the selection of the suppliers for their product ingredients accordingly.11 Along with quality and costs aspects, these
goals are now key elements of the selection process to address consumer expectations. Recent surveys clearly highlight this situation: 68% of consumers indicate that product sustainability is important when making a purchase and 66% are willing to pay more for brands that are committed to positive social and environmental impact.12,13
Greenwashing is not acceptable; values
with positive impact on the environment and society are the new currency. Authenticity and full transparency will be required to make the cut. It is essential that companies demonstrate that natural product are formulated with ingredients from truly sustainable origin with respect to local communities.
Figure 4: Biodiversity gardens around Alban Muller production site in France
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Certifications A majority of consumers agree that companies have a moral obligation to ensure that they have a positive impact on biodiversity and their trust is higher when a brand’s commitment to ethical sourcing of biodiversity is independently verified. Sustainability standards are efficient tools that distinguish companies committed to following good sourcing practices from those who do not, and they generate consumer trust. Full transparency and well-recognized certifications are key. Key independent
October 2021 PERSONAL CARE
31
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
