NATURALS


Super-natural: Evolving sustainability in naturals


Eleanor Pomroy, Emer Mackle - Lake Strategic Insights Helen Orpin - Lake Personal Care


The beauty industry has a long history of using naturally-derived ingredients, typically those derived from plants grown via well-established agricultural methods on farms and in fields, in its products. Naturals have been used to enhance the marketing story around products and as the theme for whole ranges and brands. The beauty industry is driven by innovation


and a consumer demand for new concepts and ever more efficacious products. However, sustainability has also become a key area of importance. Consumers have high personal sustainability goals and they expect brands to support them in achieving those goals. More than ever, there is a high demand for transparency and traceability around ingredient sourcing and a commitment from manufacturers to consider their products from cradle to grave. Sustainability encompasses the social and


economic aspects of a brand or product, as well as the environmental aspects. The human population is growing beyond the available natural resources, crop yields are decreasing and more agricultural land is being urbanised. Both ethically and ecologically, is it acceptable to use this limited land to produce ingredients for cosmetic products? ‘Big Beauty’ has already begun to pre-empt


these conversations, with companies such as L’Oréal and Unilever communicating their commitments to sustainability beyond the ingredient supply chain, including packaging and carbon neutrality. This conflict between land use and sustainability goals will drive interest in alternatives to agriculture-based natural ingredients from within the industry. The global market for natural cosmetics is


predicted to grow in value from $40 billion in 2020 to more than $50 billion in 2025.1


In this


article, we analyse the consumer-driven demand for natural products and look at what technologies will be used in the future to ensure these products are produced in the most sustainable way possible, as we enter the era of ‘super-natural’ ingredients.


Natural now When sourcing novel plants there needs to be an understanding of the complete supply chain and the possible consequences of popularising an ingredient. This has been witnessed in the promotion of the avocado as a ‘superfood’ in the UK. This led


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Consumer insights Being derived from nature does not necessarily mean that a product is inherently safer than one which contains synthetic ingredients. However, it is vital to understand how a beauty buyer perceives and interprets the word ‘natural’ to mean ingredients or products that are derived from natural sources, such as fruits and flowers. Linked to this is the perception that ‘natural’


products are safe, gentle and mild, and are produced using methods that are kind to the environment. A recent survey identified that 90% of consumers believed that natural or naturally derived beauty ingredients were better for them.5 For the ‘conscious consumer’, who has shifted


Palm oil remains a controversial ingredient


to an almost £140 million growth in sales. After a poor harvest in 2017, the increased demand was blamed for making avocado too expensive in Mexico, where it is a staple.2 Similarly with palm oil, over-farming led to industrial deforestation, causing the destruction of natural habitats and a decline in biodiversity. The resulting outcry spurred the creation of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil, an industry initiative that develops environmental and social criteria for 4,000 members who have committed to produce, source and/or use certified sustainable palm oil. Nonetheless, palm oil still remains controversial. Many farmers, including those making


ingredients for personal care, are also moving beyond sustainability, towards ‘regenerative’ farming, which involves avoiding pesticides and herbicides, and using sustainable techniques like crop rotation and composting to improve the soil. This is starting to influence beauty brands directly. Davines has partnered with the Rodale Institute to encourage regenerative farming of beauty ingredients.3 Alongside ingredient origin, true sustainability can only be achieved by carefully considering the plant itself, including its growth, farming and harvesting methods, the volume used and transport


after harvest. The sum total of these activities can mean that an ingredient is more sustainable from an international rather than a local source.4


away from buying purely on price, the decision- making process when buying beauty products now involves being thoughtful about the ethical and environmental impact. This has led to an increase in consumer interest in the transparency and traceability of ingredients, and for more sustainably sourced products. For instance, 75% of British shoppers have


consciously modified their buying behaviour towards more ethical choices; 68% of consumers prefer to purchase from brands whose practices align with their own beliefs and values, while 90% are willing to pay more to an ethical retailer or brand that gives back to society.7


Furthermore,


Deloitte has reported that almost a third of consumers have stopped buying into specific brands, due to ethical and sustainability concerns.8 Consumers are advocates for ‘good for the


planet’ personal care products on social media. Data from Traackr found that from April 2018 to April 2020, around 75,000 Instagram posts by beauty influencers mentioned sustainability.9


In


the past year, posts about ‘eco-friendly beauty’ saw a 42% increase in engagement.10 Transparency in traceability is communicating open and honest information on the lifecycle of a product. IBM reported in a global survey that 73% of respondents felt that traceability of products is important to them. Of those, 71% said that they would pay a premium for products that proved their traceability.11 However, brands need to be cautious of


‘greenwashing’. Sometimes, when consumers dig deeper, they find that the claims of sustainability are unfounded. The British Beauty Council report, ‘Courage to Change’ said: “Greenwashing makes it more difficult for consumers to make the choices they want to be able to make. It undermines the credibility of the sector more widely and is a substantial barrier to real progress.”12


October 2021 PERSONAL CARE


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