30 NATURALS
Naturality & biodiversity in the cosmetics industry
Pascal Yvon – Alban Muller, part of Croda International Plc, US
More and more consumers demand quality cosmetic products with naturality.1
The rising
demand for this higher purpose includes natural ingredients and sustainable cosmetic products for their overall skin health with a 360° lifestyle and wellbeing without compromised goals.2
It
has been growing continously in recent years, but it accelerated in the unprecedented times of the COVID-19 pandemic and will have a lasting impact.3,4
Naturality & biodiversity are key consumer expectations One of the key pillars of sustainability is the environmental aspect with the respect and protection of the planet, and with the critical goal of biodiversity preservation. There is a growing demand to live in harmony with nature, with the desire to contribute personally to ethical sourcing and to safeguarding biodiversity. With heightened consumer consciousness and information capabilities via social media and special apps at their fingertips, biodiversity is a growing crucial issue for the cosmetics industry if it wants to meet consumer expectations.
Biodiversity & healthy ecosystems Biodiversity or biological diversity is the scientific term for the variety of living organisms from all sources on Earth. Biodiversity is the key indicator of the health of an ecosystem. Ecosystems are dynamic complex networks of interdependent relationships involving every living thing, including humans. Everywhere on the planet, species live
together and depend on one another for healthy ecosystems. A wide variety of species will cope better with threats than a limited number of them in large populations; the extinction of a species may have an unforeseen
impact that can lead to the destruction of entire ecosystems. Nature and biodiversity are important for our daily life, health and wellbeing.
Biodiversity is declining fast The scientific community indicates that, due to human influence, species are becoming extinct at up to 1,000 times the rate that natural conditions would cause.5
Primary
drivers of biodiversity loss include degradation of ecosystems, overexploitation of natural resources, climate change and pollution. The diversity within species, between species and of ecosystems are declining fast.6 Without effective actions, this will lead to
major effects on the planet and society . As UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-Moon said: “There is no Plan B because there is no Planet B”.As threats to the planet natural resources keep increasing, holistic approaches for biodiversity preservation are a key objective. At the current level of loss, there is now more than ever, an urgent need of regeneration, i.e. promoting and revitalising the ecosystems.
Key agreements on biodiversity The United Nations developed the Convention on Biological Diversity in 1992 and it has been signed by over 190 States, creating the central framework for biodiversity protection. This Convention has three main objectives: the protection of biodiversity, sustainable use of biodiversity, and access and benefit sharing (ABS) (Article. 1).The Convention recognises that countries have sovereign rights on the genetic resources on their territory. It also believes that any benefit arising from the use of genetic resources should be shared with the country providing these resources.
Figure 2: Senegalese women producers working in plant fields (courtesy of Diongoma)
The framework for the effective
implementation of ABS is known as the Nagoya Protocol, which was adopted in 2010 and entered into force in 2014. It contributes to the conservation and sustainable use of biodiversity, thereby enhancing the contribution of biodiversity to the development and well-being of local producers and communities. Successful actions for biodiversity focus on and adapt to local realities as well as close collaboration with local partners. Another important regulation is the
Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), which entered into force in 1975. CITES
Varietal plant selection with initial natural high concentration in active molecules
Optimal plant harvest time
Selective
extraction with natural solvent
Zeodration drying process,
preserving the high concentration of active molecules
Figure 1: Critical steps in sourcing and manufacturing process to obtain plant extracts with high yield PERSONAL CARE October 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Standardisation
Finished product with active molecules
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