78 SKIN CARE
showed the increase of skin radiance by 1.5% after 56 days of applying the cream containing 2% acetyl-hexapeptide-8 in the group of subjects using the cosmetic product. The measurement was carried out before and after the use of the cream containing 2% acetyl- hexapeptide-8 peptide.7 The encouraging results, albeit obtained
from small size clinical studies, point to an improvement in skin characteristics and anti- ageing effects. However, more research in this area with well-designed studies, of a bigger size and longer duration is needed for a valid and reliable conclusion. We also need to be able to better understand factors affecting stability of peptide molecules present in various formulation types (i.e. O/W emulsion or hydrogels) over the period of time the products are being used.
Conclusion With this relatively brief overview about peptides and relations to their parent proteins, I wish to emphasise the immeasurable potential that a carefully selected peptide molecule might offer, not only applied in the field of cosmetic science, but also in medicine and pharmacy, in particular where fine cellular and molecular mechanisms may be used to regulate gene expression in order to modulate cell and tissue response. I am of the opinion that the science
should support future research into the use of peptides to provide new answers, opportunities and guidelines for the epigenetic regulation in anti- ageing, disease treatment and preventive medicine.
10 0
-10 -20 -30 -40 -50 -60
-7.9% ** -10.2% ** 35-40 years old
Placebo ■ 2% Reproage peptide solution ■ 50-55 years old
10 0
-34.9%
-10 -20 -30 -40 -50 -60
28 days Average & maximum results are shown. 56 days -9.8% ** -13.7% ***
-38.4% -41.3% 28 days vs initial time: **p<0.01: ***p<0.001 56 days
vs placebo: *p,0.05 (35-40 years old) **p<0.01 (50-55 years old)
Figure 8: Changes in skin roughness between the two groups of volunteers Source: 7 with the permission of the author
0 DAYS 28 DAYS 56 DAYS
PC
References 1. Ambros V. The functions of animal microRNAs. Nature 2004; 431: 350-355
2. Aulton’s Pharmaceutics (2018) The design and manufacture of medicines, e-book, accessed 20/04/2021
3. D’Orazio J., Jarrett S., Amaro-Ortiz A., Scott T. UV Radiation and the Skin. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2013;14: 12222-48.
4. Gorouhi F., Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin, Int. J. Cosm Science 2009; 31, 327-345.
5. Khavinson V.. Tissue-specific effects of peptides. Bull Exp. Biol. Med. 2001; 132 (2): 807-8
DAY 0
Figure 9: Reconstructed 3D images of skin rougness Source: 7 with the permission from the author
6. Khavinson V., Micans P., Maryanovich A. Peptides in the epigenetic control of ageing: discoveries and prospects, Profound Health Ltd edition 2017.
7. Lipotec: Reproage technical report, 2016, revision no. 1.
8. Moll R., Divo M., Langbein L. The human keratins: biology and pathology. Histochem. Cell Biol. 2008; 129(6): 705-733.
9. Weinhold B. Epigenetics: the science of change. Environmental Health Perspectives 2006; 114(3): A160-A167.
10. Winter MC, Bickenbach JR. Aging epidermis DAY 56
is maintained by changes in transit-amplifying cell kinetics, not stem cell kinetics. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2009; 129(11): 2541-3.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jelena Miladinović-Delić is a UK qualified pharmacist. She is the founder and the director of Beauty Core Ltd, a company that manufactures premium skin and body care products, with special focus on skin anti-ageing.
Figure 10: Overall improvement in skin radiance and reflection. Source: 7, with the permission from the author PERSONAL CARE October 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
50-55 YEAR OLD
35-40 YEAR OLD
Sa evolution (%)
Sa evolution (%)
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