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92 SKIN PROTECTION


exposure affects protein carbonylation. At the dose of 2.5% in a basic Carbopol gel, SA is able to reduce such damage and consequently protects the protein function avoiding its deterioration.


Conclusion


It is well noted that UV rays as well as blue light irradiation are responsible for deleterious effects on the skin.


Blue light penetrates deeper in the skin that UV rays. It represents 50% of the energy emitted by the sun and almost 100% of the energy emitted by artificial sources. It is therefore very important to bring protection not only from UV rays but also from blue light. In this study we provide evidence that , from Gelyma, prepared from


Sun’Alg®


Dunaliella salina and Haematococcus pluvialis in a natural oil, exhibits major beneficial effects against indoor and outdoor photodamage. We also confirm the high potential of


microalgae, this large and unexplored group of organisms, as natural and sustainable photoprotectants for cosmetic developments.


Acknowledgments We thank Cynthia Houel (Sephra) and Clement Villar (Gelyma) for their expert technical assistance.


A Explants non irradiated and non treated : red points less abundant. B Explants irradiated and non treated : numerous large red points. C Explants irradiated and treated by placebo : visible large red points. D Explants irradiated and treated by 2.5% SA : red points less abundant.


Figure 4: Immunolabelling of skin human explants submitted to blue light exposure . PC


References 1 Liebel F, Kaur S, Ruvolo E, Kollias N, Southall


MD. Irradiation of Skin with Visible Light Induces Reactive Oxygen Species and Matrix- Degrading Enzymes. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2012; 132 : 1901-1907.


2 Haywood R, Volkov A, Andrady C, Sayer R. Measuring sunscreen protection against solar- simulated radiation-induced structural radical damage to skin using ESR/spin trapping: development of an ex vivo test method. Free. Radic. Res. 2012; 46: 265 - 275.


3 Thiele JJ, Dreher F, Packer L. Antioxidant defense systems in skin. In: Elsner P, Maibach H, eds. Cosmeceuticals, Drugs Vs. Cosmetics, New York: Marcel Dekker, 2000; 145-187.


4 Vandersee S, Beyer M, Lademann J, Darvin ME. Blue-violet light irradiation dose dependently decreasescarotenoids in human skin, which indicates the generation of free radicals. Oxid. Med. Cell. Longev. 2015; 579675.


5 Berson DS. Natural antioxidants. J. Drugs Dermatol. 2008; 7 : s7-s12.


6 Hajimahmoodi M, Faramarzi MA, Mohammadi N, et al. Evaluation of antioxidant properties and total phenolic contents of some strains of microalgae, J. Appl. Phycol. 2010 ; 22:43– 50.


7 Jo WS, Yang KM, Park HS, et al. Effect of Microalgal Extracts of Tetraselmis suecica against UVB-induced photoaging in Human Skin Fibroblasts. Toxicol. Res. 2012; 28 (4): 241-248.


8 Campiche R, Sandau P, Kurth E, et al. Protective effects of an extract of the freshwater


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


microalga Scenedesmus rubescens on UV- irradiated skin cells. Int. J. Cosm. Science 2018; 40 :187-192.


9 Mendrok-Edinger C, Campiche R, Gadsinski K, Schuetz R. Into the Blue : Novel test reveals blue light damage , Protection strategies, Cosmetics & Toiletries 2018; 113 (1) : 13-28.


10 Liebel F, Kaur S, Ruvolo E, Kollias N, Southall MD. Irradiation of Skin with Visible Light Induces Reactive Oxygen Speciesand Matrix- Degrading Enzymes. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2012; 132 : 1901–1907.


11 Opländer C, Hidding S, Werners FB, et al. 6 Effects of blue light irradiation on human dermal fibroblasts. J. Photochem. Photobiol. 2011; 103 (2): 118 - 125.


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13 Nakashima Y. Ohta S. Wolf AM. Blue light- induced oxidative stress in live skin. Free Radic. Biol. Med. 2017; 108: 300-310.


14 Chiu CC, Haung JW, Chang FR, et al. Golden berry-derived 4 beta-hydroxywithanolide E for selectively killing oral cancer cells by generating ROS, DNA damage, and apoptotic pathways. PloS one 2013; 8:e64739.


15 Mahmoud BH, Hexsel CL, Hamzavi IH, Lim HW. Effects of visible light on the skin. Photochem. Photobiol. 2008; 84: 450 -462.


16 Li PF, Dietz R, von Harsdorf R. Reactive oxygen species induce apoptosis of vascular smooth muscle cell. FEBS lett 1997; 404:249-252.


17 Vandersee S, Beyer M, Lademann J, Darvin ME. Blue-Violet Light Irradiation Dose Dependently Decreases Carotenoids in Human Skin, Which Indicates the Generation of Free Radicals. Hindawi Publishing Corporation, Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity 2015; Article ID 579675, 7 pages.


18 Chung JH, Seo JY, Lee MK, et al. Ultraviolet modulation of human macrophage metalloelastase in human skin in vivo, J. Invest. Dermatol. 2002; 119 : 507–512.


19 Dhitala B, Durlikb P, Rathod P, et al Ultraviolet radiation reduces desmosine cross-links in elastin, Biochemistry and Biophysics Reports 10, 2017; 172–177.


20 Cho S, Lee MJ, Kim MS, et al. Infrared plus visible light and heat from natural sunlight participate in the expression of MMPs and typeI procollagen as well as infiltration of inflammatory cell in human skin in vivo. J. Dermatol. Sci. 2008; 50 : 123–133.


21 Barbagallo M. 100% Natural protection against blue light. Personal Care Europe 2018; 12 (2).


22 Nyström T. Role of oxidative carbonylation in protein quality control and senescence. EMBO J. 2005; 24: 1311–7.


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24 Mizutani T, Sumida H, Sagawa Y, Okano Y, Masaki H. Carbonylated proteins exposed to UVA and blue light generate reactive oxygen species through a type I photosensitizing reaction. J Dermatol. Science 2016; 84(3) :314-321.


November 2019 a b


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