SUNSCREEN 107
n 12% Enhance U-S n 12%Sun-T n 12%SunT+Dispersant
80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Table 2: Characterisation of natural formulas. Measuring equipment: Spectrometer SPF-290AS Solar Light.
Ref. SPF 46±15 UVA
A 3611 26±7 B
36±16 C 55±16 47±13
UVA/UVB ratio 0.78 0.81 0.83
LOC 380 380 380
Formula A (INCI): Aqua, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Titanium Dioxide, Silybum marianum extract, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Pentylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, monoester with oxibis (propanediol), Glyceryl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Phenylpropanol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Xantham Gum, Citric Acid. Formula B (INCI): Aqua, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silybum marianum extract, Titanium Dioxide, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Pentylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, monoester with oxibis (propanediol), Glyceryl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Phenylpropanol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Xantham Gum, Citric Acid, Stearic acid, alumina Formula C (INCI): Aqua, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silybum marianum extract, Titanium Dioxide, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Pentylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, monoester with oxibis (propanediol), 2-octyldodecyl oleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, 12 - [(1-oxy octadecyl) oxy] 2-octyldodecyl octadecanoate, Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Phenylpropanol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Xantham Gum, Citric Acid, Stearic acid, alumina, Polyhydroxystearic acid, 2- octyldodecan-1-ol.
AB C Figure 3: Natural SPF cream. Regulations
ST can incorporate up to 25 wt.% in formula, except in applications that can lead to the exposure of the end user’s lungs due to inhalation if it contains ZnO. The alumina coating, in addition, ensures the photostability of the filter.3
Natural formulas
The coating of stearic acid (alternative to dimethicone coating) makes it suitable for natural formulas, such as A-D formulas.
Conclusion
In conclusion, ADPCosmetics proposes a new UV, non-nanometric filter specifically for oily phase and recommended for natural o/w and w/o formulas. Its INCI is: Zinc oxide (And) Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina. This ingredient, manufactured with patented technology, allows the preparation of formulas with high SPF and broad spectrum protection. Combined with the colour enhanceU-T filters, it gives different shades to the cosmetic formulas.
PC
References 1 Stiefel C, Schwack W. Photoprotection in
changing times – UV filter efficacy and safety, sensitization processes and regulatory aspects, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2014; 37: 2–30
2 Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 2016; 49: 2 apr./jun
3 COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) 2016/1143 of 13 July 2016 amending the Annex IV of Regulation (EU) n.o 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products
November 2019 10 Figure 4: Characterisation by DLS. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC 100 Size (nm) 1000
Ref. D
SPF 76±44 UVA 57±34
UVA/UVB ratio 0.82
LOC 380
Formula D (INCI): Aqua, Zinc oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Titanium Dioxide, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Pentylene Glycol, Silybum marianum extract, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters, Perfume (Fragrance), Sodium Chloride, Phenylpropanol, CI-4492, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Cetyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Xantham Gum, CI-77491, Silica, Stearic Acid, Alumina, CI-77499, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Cnidium Monnieri Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, (and) l Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, C30-45 Olefin.
Intensity
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