82 SKIN CARE CH2 HOH2 C H2 C N Tris Amino
and manufacturers looking for more environmentally responsible chemistry, there is Tris Amino™ Ultra PC (INCI Name: Tromethamine) from ANGUS Chemical Company, which is shown in Figure 3. Tris Amino Ultra PC can offer a wide range of benefits that are found in many applications, including limiting degradation. The most common commercial applications include: sun care (better skin coverage for physical sunscreen and enhanced pH stability for PBSA), deodorant products for efficient odour scavenging; soap-based cleansing products, shampoo, facial cleansers and body cleansers for improved cleansing power; and for enhancing the creation of rich, dense and stable foam in cleansing products. Tris Amino Ultra PC has been given a rating of 1-2 on the EWG scale, depending on usage.
The first 100% naturally-derived, EO-free, 1,4-Dioxane free, PEG- free solubiliser In the cosmetics industry, solubilisers are general ingredients used to incorporate oil- based ingredients into a water-based product such as fragrance, essential oil, preservative, etc. The most widely applied solubilisers so far are polysorbates (especially polysorbate 20) and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Unfortunately, both products are PEG-derivatives and not
Trade Name
safe enough for the consumers. A natural solubiliser is a rare item in the cosmetic and personal care market. Poly Suga Mulse D9 (INCI Name: Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer) from Colonial Chemical is the best choice for this application. Poly Suga Mulse D9 is a PEG- free, nonionic fragrance, solubiliser made from 100% biobased raw materials. It is hydrophilic, freely soluble or dispersible in water, and soluble in varying degrees in organic liquids. Poly Suga Mulse D9 is used for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsification, dispersion or solubilisation of fragrances and all types of oils. It is compatible with nonionic, cationic and anionic surfactants and is effective in systems with relatively high levels of electrolyte, acid, or base. Poly Suga Mulse D9 is an excellent solubiliser for fragrances in water-only and water-and-surfactant systems. Poly Suga Mulse D9 compares favourably to ethoxylated materials (such as polysorbate- 20 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) in both ease-of-use and use levels. Poly Suga Mulse D9 may also be used as a co-emulsifier in the formulation of creams and lotions. This material has a favourable safety profile, HET- CAM Test - practically no ocular irritation potential in vivo, a score of 2.25, Patch Test on human volunteers (48 and 72 hrs.) with 53 subjects - 53/53 showed no visible skin reaction (0) and biodegradable (OECD 301) –
Table 2: Showing the EWG score of each ingredient. Principal Grant
Gransil SIW-038 INCI Name Dimethicone
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Polysilicone-11
Jan Dekker
ANGUS Chemical Colonial Chemical
Dekanex FG Series Tris Amino Ultra PC Poly Suga Mulse D9
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Water & Glycerin & Decyl Glucoside Hydrogenated Polydecene Tromethamine
Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer OH CH2 OH α-H absent OH TEA Figure 3: Showing the structure of Tris Amino Ultra PC (without an alpha-hydrogen) and TEA (contains an alpha-hydrogen).
freshwater readily biodegradable.8 Poly Suga Mulse D9 scored 1 on the
EWG scale.
Conclusion This year, IMCD APAC will be focusing on the ‘Clean Beauty’ trend with a unique texture and new sensorial experience; our highlighted ingredients are scored 1 or 2 on the EWG scale (Table 2), indicating low hazard on skin. The EWG score ensures that the cosmetic and personal care products do not only fulfill your desires but also provides more knowledge of safer ingredients. Visit IMCD at in-cosmetics Asia on stand M10 on 5-7 November 2019.
PC
References 1
https://goop.com/beauty/personal-care/clean-
beauty-and-why-its-important/
2
https://www.sephora.com/beauty/clean- beauty-products
3
https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/clean-beauty- guide
4
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ 5 Grant Industries – Gransil SiW elastomer gels brochure
6 Jan Dekker – Dekanex FG series brochure 7 ANGUS Chemical Company - Mitigating Risk of Nitrosamine Formation presentation
8 Colonial Chemical – Poly Suga Mulse D9 – brochure.
EWG Scored 1 1 1 1 2 2 1
November 2019 HO N
α-H present OH
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