34 MINERALS 5 44 4 100 3 2 50 1 0


Reference formulation Formula with 20% sythetic mattifying agent


Formula with 5% new natural mattifying agent


Figure 3: Mattifying effect of pressed powder formulation evaluated by expert panellists.


Effectiveness of the new mineral-based mattifying agent in pressed powders validated by a panel test The pressed powder containing 20% new, natural, mineral-based mattifying agent, demonstrates a high mattifying effect comparable to the same formula containing 20% synthetic polymer-based mattifying agent (Fig 3).


Discussion A new thermal and mechanical processing technology has been developed to obtain an innovative phyllosilicate with a unique microporous structure and consequently a high surface area (Fig 4). This new phyllosilicate belongs to the kaolinite group. Due to its unique morphology, this innovative kaolin-based solution possesses excellent sebum absorption capabilities compared to traditional minerals such as talc or kaolin available on the market (Fig 5). Finally, this kaolin-based solution confers a


a 45 0 Typical Kaolin Typical Talc


New kaolin-based solution


Figure 5: Sebum absorption of typical kaolin, typical talc and new kaolin- based solution.


high mattifying effect in cosmetic formulations.


Conclusion In vivo instrumental evaluation on gel creams and panel test on pressed powder formulations demonstrate that this new phyllosilicate belonging to the kaolinite group can effectively replace synthetic mattifying agents such as polymethyl metacrylate. In fact, the mattifying gel containing the innovative kaolin-based solution has a superior immediate mattifying effect compared to the formulation containing the synthetic mattifying agent and an equivalent mattifying effect after eight hours. Panel test results also demonstrate that pressed powders containing the new kaolin-based solution impart an immediate matte skin finish comparable to the synthetic mattifying agent. Complementary tests have been carried


b


out and show that replacing synthetic mattifying agents by this new, natural kaolin- based solution does not alter the sensory properties of formulations (colour, softness, consistency) or mechanical properties (cohesion of the press powders). Finally, this natural, kaolin-based


mattifying agent is COSMOS and Ecocert approved. This ingredient forms part of Imerys’ range of engineered minerals for


ImerCare®


the cosmetics industry, derived from 100% natural diatomite, kaolin, perlite and talc. Imerys’ experts engineer these minerals to provide exactly the right properties in terms of exfoliation, matting, transparency, coverage, rheology absorption, and skin-feel. The ImerCare range is ideal for use in


colour cosmetics, makeup, skincare and hair care products, toothpastes, body powders and deodorants. All ImerCare grades are natural, high quality, chemically inert and offer good skin tolerance.


PC 60 2.5 110 150


Figure 4: Scanning electron microscopy of the new kaolin-based solution (blocky, with interstices) (a) has a different morphology from conventional kaolin (kaolin) (b).


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC November 2019


Wxpert panel score


Sebum absorption (mL/100g)


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