24 FRAGRANCES
Ingredients focus: fragrance ingredients and concepts
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
Fragrance gives products an extra dimension and are a calling card for many brands. A high quality scent is difficult to imitate, as is its longevity. Fragrances and their fixatives work in harmony to disseminate the scent and make it last for a long time on the skin, reminding the user of their indulgence. Solublilisers are also key parts of the process, ensuring that oils mix into aqueous solutions.
Another important aspect of the industry
are development concepts, which help to show formulators what is possible with the latest ingredients from leading suppliers. In this article we take a look at some of
the ingredients and new concepts available to formulators seeking to make a real impression with fragrances in their products.
male interest.
Fragrance ingredients KahlWax’s 6614 Tea Wax is derived from the Camellia sinensis plant, which is native to East and Southeast Asia and the Indian subcontinent, but is nowadays cultivated across the world in tropical and subtropical regions for green and black tea. The company’s tea wax is obtained by mild and eco-friendly CO2
extraction of the leaves.
As a byproduct of the manufacturing process of decaffeinated tea, it is very sustainable.
6614 is a soft, dark olive coloured wax with a medium low drop melting range of 60-66C that can be incorporated in any kind of formulation. It has a very distinctive natural tea scent and flavour which can be utilised or easily masked according to preferences. Tea wax makes emulsions more substantial, its impact is similar to that of an emollient. While it has no big influence on hardness, it increases the creaminess of a finished formulation. The use of personal care products, in addition to improving our physical appearance, has a positive impact on our own perception and on the way others perceive us. Sensfeel For Her from Provital is based on the natural attraction power of pheromones, so that women can capture
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
It is a blend of jasmine flower, whose fragrance increases the testosterone in men, and carob tree, whose fatty acids mimic the composition of copulins, pheromones secreted by women that stimulate men subconciously. An in vivo study was carried out to test the testosterone increase that Sensfeel For Her produces in men. The results showed how there was an increase of 82% of testosterone, and the maximum response was observed after only 30 minutes. sensiva SC 50 from Schuelke & Mayr is a globally approved, versatile and multifunctional additive, as well as a very effective deodorant active. As an emollient, it improves the skin-feel of cosmetic formulations. sensiva SC 50 reliably inhibits the growth and multiplication of odour- causing bacteria, while at the same time not affecting the beneficial skin flora. Additionally, it can boost the efficacy of traditional preservatives and act as anti- microbial stabiliser in combination with other cosmetic ingredients. Fragrances in some products can lose their character rapidly; i.e. the top/middle notes evaporate. It may be desirable to extend the life of such perfumes, particularly with regard to the initial character and intensity of the fragrance.
Two panel tests were conducted to show the influence of sensiva SC 50 on single fragrance ingredients. The tests evaluated these ingredients on smelling strips and in compounded perfumes in different cosmetic formulations applied to the forearm. The intensity of scent was compared with and without sensiva SC 50 added to the ingredients or formulations. A boosting effect is an enhancement of scent by a faster evaporation of the fragrance shortly after application. Fixation is an increase in the lasting power of a fragrance during a prolonged evaporation. For the first panel test, frequently used fragrance ingredients were selected exemplifying different chemical structures and properties. In the second test, three different perfume compositions were tested in a massage oil, hair gel, eau de toilette, shampoo, oil-in- water emulsion and water-in-oil emulsion. sensiva SC 50 had an influence on most of the fragrance ingredients tested with respect to boosting and/or fixation. A fresher or softer appearance of the scent was observed in a few fragrance ingredients after some hours. Perfume compositions were also boosted and fixated by sensiva SC 50 in different cosmetic formulations. The lower the substantivity of the perfume, the stronger was the boosting and/or fixating effect of sensiva SC 50. In these formulas, the perfume concentration could be reduced with the addition of 0.5% sensiva SC 50.
The boosting and fixating of fragrance
ingredients can often allow a lower use concentration of the perfume in the final formulation. Due to interactions between the fragrance ingredients in a perfume composition and with the formulation base itself, the effect of sensiva SC 50 must be tested case by case. Natisol from Sinerga is a lipoaminoacidic eco-solubilising agent derived from coconut fatty acids and proline. It is particularly suitable to solubilise essential oils and fragrances for toiletries and perfumes, as it substitutes ethoxylated surfactants normally used in cosmetic products.
November 2019
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