HAIR CARE 49
Si-free SP w PQ -10 x1 wash
2% 4% 1% 0% -2% -4% -6% -8% -10% -12%
Cationic Guar -x1 wash
Si-free SP w
Si-free SP w APTAC/ACM -x1 wash
Si-free SP w APTAC/ACM -x2 wash
Cationic polymer -x1 wash
Si-free SP w /o
a a b b b
Figure 2: Percentage decrease of the tryptophan content of virgin Asian hair after different silicone-free shampoo wash. Same letters mark indicates not statistically significant, while different letters mark (a, b) indicates statistically significant differences, p<0.05.
degradation of virgin hair caused by pollutants. Asian virgin hair tresses, washed with a
silicone-free shampoo with different cationic conditioning polymers, were exposed to smoke for 6 hours, and the tryptophan content was measured with a fluorescence spectrophotometer.10
As
shown in Figure 2, the tryptophan level of hair washed by the shampoo without any polymers decreased about 6%, while the shampoo with PQ-10 and cationic guar washed hair decreased about 7-8% which means PQ-10 and cationic guar do not provide pollution protection benefit. In contrast, the hair had only a 2% tryptophan level decrease after 1x washed by shampoo with APTAC/ACM, and almost no tryptophan level decrease after 2x washes. The results showed APTAC/ACM in shampoo can protect the hair from chemical damage of pollution. As shown in Figure 3, the cuticle morphology observed with the scanning electron microscope provided more visible proof of the ability of APTAC/ACM to provide virgin hair with effective protection against exposure to cigarette smoke. The cuticle of the hair, washed by shampoo
APTA C/ACM x1 wash
Si-in SP w
1% 0% -1% -2% -3% -4% -5% -6%
Si-in SP -x1 wash
APTA C/ACM x3 wash
Si-in SP w a a
Figure 3: Cuticle morphology of unexposed Asian virgin hair, and hair washed with a shampoo without polymer, with PQ-10, and APTAC/ACM after smoke exposure.
without polymer and with PQ-10, was raised, shredded and severely damaged, but the cuticle of the hair, washed by shampoo with APTAC/ACM was relatively intact and smooth, similar to unexposed hair. This means that the hair surface has been protected as well by APTAC/ACM, besides the protection of the internal hair protein.
The performance of anti-pollution has also been measured on Caucasian virgin hair after 1x and 3x silicone-in shampoo washes. The performance of APTAC/ACM is compared against untreated hair tress (blank) and shampoo with only cationic guar, and the results are presented in Figure 4. It can be seen from the results that there is about 4% tryptophan level decrease for untreated hair after exposed to smoke. Silicone-in shampoo with APTAC/ACM is providing very good tryptophan protection already after first wash. According to this study after three washes the tryptophan degradation has been completely prevented. Shampoo without APTAC/ACM has the same level of tryptophan decrease as untreated hair, and does not have pollution protection efficacy. It is worth noting that Caucasian virgin hair has less
Si-in SP -x3 wash
Caucasian vingin hair
Blank n Pre-Dust Exposure n Post-Dust Exposure b b b
Figure 4: Percentage decrease of the tryptophan content of virgin Caucasian hair after different silicone-in shampoo wash. Same letters mark indicates not statistically significant, while different letters mark (a, b) indicates statistically significant differences, p<0.05.
November 2019
3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 0
a b c
tryptophan loss as compared to Asian virgin hair due to lower initial tryptophan content.
Anti-dust study
The pollutants inside air pollution not only damage hair protein, causing raised, shredded cuticles and severely damaged surface, but contains solid particle, such as PM2.5/10, that will also deposit on hair surface and make hair surface rough and difficult to comb. In the anti-pollution study, the tryptophan content of bleached hair did not decrease significantly, since the bleached hair already has extensive damage on hair protein during the bleaching process. However, airborne particles are more readily deposited on bleached hair due to its hydrophilic surface. Asian bleached hair tresses, washed by
silicone-free conditioning shampoo and shampoo with APTAC/ACM, and then dried, were exposed to dust for 10 minutes. The hypothesis is that the dry combing force will increase when particulate matter (PM2.5/10) and toxic pollutants are absorbed onto the hair surface.11
Figure 5
showed the dry combability of unwashed bleach hair, and hair washed by shampoo, shampoo with APTAC/ACM, pre-dust and
Bleach Hair
Si-free SP w Cationic Guar - - x1 wash
Si-free w APTAC/ACM - x1 wash
Figure 5: Dry combability of unwashed bleach hair and hair washed by silicone-free shampoo with/without APTAC/ACM, pre-dust and post-dust exposure. Different letters mark (a, b, c) indicates statistically significant differences, p<0.05.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Trp Percent Change %
Trp Percent Change %
Total Combing Energy/gf mm
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