MINERALS 33
mixture and mix it for 30 seconds using a mixer. Repeat until the mix is fully blended. Put the powder blend into a beaker. Add phase B drop by drop and homogenise with the spatula. Add mattifying agent into the beaker and homogenise. Mix the blend for 30 seconds. Sift the blend. Weigh 12g into each container and press the powder for 20 seconds at 20 bars.
Instrumental test: sebum absorption The sebum absorption measurements were carried out with synthetic sebum, a blend of triglycerides, esters, fatty acids, sterol and squalene (Table 3). Synthetic sebum composition is close to human sebum. Sebum absorption was measured according to standard ISO 787-5:1980.
In vivo instrumental evaluation of skin shine The three gel creams described above were applied to 17 volunteers’ hemi-foreheads according to a standardised application method (2 μl/cm2). The immediate mattifying effect (at t0) and the long-term
Table 3: Composition of synthetic sebum. Lipid class Triglyceride Esters
Ingredients Triolein
Fatty acid
Cholesterol ester Sterol
Squalene
Cetyl palmitate Stearic acid Oleic acid
Cholesterol palmitate Cholesterol Squalene
mattifying effect (at t0+8h) were evaluated using cutaneous gloss measurements with the Glossymeter®
GL 200.
Panel test: mattifying effect ranking by visual evaluation The mattifying performance of each pressed powder formulation was ranked by five experts on a scale of 0 to 5 (0 = no mattifying effect and 5 = high mattifying effect).
Form at 20% Liquid Solid Solid
Liquid Solid Solid
Liquid %
32.1 24.2 13.8 13.8 1.9 3.9
10.3
Results Clinical study results The in vivo instrumental evaluation test showed that the new natural, mineral-based solution demonstrates a visible mattifying effect on all the volunteers (Fig 1). In addition, the new mineral-based solution has a superior immediate mattifying effect compared to the synthetic mattifying agent and an equivalent mattifying effect after 8 hours (Fig 2).
n t0 n t0+8h 100% 100% 82% 75% 65% 50% 35% 35% 25% 0% 0% 0% Skin without gel Reference formulation
Formula with 5% synthetic mattifying agent
Figure 1: Percentage of volunteers whose skin exhibits a mattifying effect. n t0 n t0+8h
10% 5% 0%
-5% -6%
-10% -15% -20% -25%
Skin without gel Reference formulation -10% -19%
Formula with 5% synthetic mattifying agent
Figure 2: Variation of skin gloss (%) compared to reference (skin without mattifying gel). November 2019 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Formula with a new natural, mineral-based solution
-7% 8% 0% 0% 6%
Formula with a new natural, mineral-based solution
65%
Effectiveness (%) compared to skin without gel
Volunteers whose skin exhibits a mattifying effect
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