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MEN’S GROOMING 41 Mean fluorescence intensity emitted by total ROS


n Control n UVA/UVB n MRS (0.5%) n MRS (1%) n MRS (2.5%)


SOD activity (mU/mg of proteins)


n Control n UVA/UVB n MRS (0.5%)+UVA/UVB n MRS (1%)+UVA/UVB n MRS (2.5%)+UVA/UVB


-18%


-27% -24%


T0 T30min Figure 5: Study of ROS. Induction by UVA/UVB.


that at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, an increase of water retention in the dehydrated epidermis was apparent at T0+15 min respectively by 24%, 30% and 35% ; and at T0+30 min, respectively by 29%, 36% and 43% compared to non- treated controls.


In the study of dynamic water at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, a decrease of the trans-epidermic transfer of the [3


H]-H2


O was shown at T0+15min respectively by 28%, 32% and 38% ; at T 0+30 min respectively by 26%, 29% and 34 % ; and at T 0+60 min, respectively by 20%, 23% and 29%, compared to non-treated controls.


Strengthening natural antioxidant protection in the epidermis Oxidation (due to numerous environmental factors, such as UV and pollution, and internal factors such as the metabolism and stress) is a general phenomenon that affects all skin cells, damaging the components of their structure. However, the production of free radicals attacks our skin in different ways: oxidising cell membranes (lipid peroxidation), and proteins generally, ultimately damaging the cell DNA. Naolys decided to verify the sequoia plant cells’ activity in terms of the overall production free radicals (Fig 5), and also its action on the two main antioxidant enzymes: SOD (superoxide dismutase) (Fig 6) and catalase.


SOD accelerates the transformation of superoxide ions into hydrogen peroxide


Study of the inflammation mediators IL1-alpha (pg/ml) IL-6 (pg/ml) -18% -21% -28% +30% -24% PEG2 (pg/ml) -17% +27% -26% +29% -26%


-33% -29%


T3h T0 T30min Figure 6: Study of the SOD activity. Induction by UVA/UVB.


which catalase then converts into water and oxygen, thereby preventing the formation of carbon dioxide in the blood and also the formation of toxins and mutations in the DNA. In the study of total ROS at


concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, there is a decrease of the reactive oxygenated species (ROS) after 30 min of irradiation of the keratinocytes treated with the sequoia plant cells before, respectively by 18%, 24% and 27% and, after 3 hours of irradiation of 26%, 29% and 33%, compared to the non- treated control.


In the study of SOD activity, at


concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after irradiation of the keratinocytes treated with the sequoia plant cells before, an increase of the SOD activity was shown respectively by 19%, 23% and 25%, after 30 min and, of 15%, 19% and 23%, after 3 hours, compared to the non-treated control. In the study of catalase activity, at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after irradiation of the keratinocytes treated with the sequoia plant cells before, an increase of the catalase activity was shown respectively by 22%, 24% and 31%, after 30 min, and of 18%, 21% and 24%, after 3 hours compared to the non-treated control.


Decreasing irritation Inflammation is the tissue’s answer to aggressions: all defence mechanisms through which they recognise, destroy and eliminate any foreign substances. Different types of cells take part in those mechanisms


but in the epidermis, it is the keratinocytes we will study.


At the beginning of inflammation, its


diffusion starts from the initial location and involves chemical factors that are locally synthetised or at the state of inactive precursors. Naolys decided to study three inflammation mediators synthetised at the level of the keratinocytes, 2 famous cytokines (IL1-apha and IL6) and a prostaglandine (PGE2). The results are shown in Figure 7.


Conclusion


MReload Sequoia (INCI: Sequoia Sempervirens Leaf Cell Extract) decreases deep and superficial wrinkles on the face, including mature skins, especially crow’s feet. Its moisturising effect keeps water in the whole epidermis and strengthens the cutaneous barrier.


As an antioxidant, MReload Sequoia


reduces the formation of free radicals, strengthens internal antioxidant protection, especially the action of antioxidant enzymes. At the same time, it offers a calming


effect, reducing temporary inflammatory processes and contributes to densify the dermis. This helps to improve or restore the dermis functions and skin resistance. MReload Sequoia can be used in


products such as creams, oils, masks, serums, essences, etc. Any cosmetic product for men intended to strengthen skin and limit skin ageing, and is for all skin types.


PC


+25% +23%


+19%


+23%


+19% +15%


T3h


Negative control


UVB MRS (0.5%) +UVB


MRS (1%) +UVB


MRS (2.5%) +UVB


Figure 7: Study of the inflammation mediators. November 2019 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


Negative control


UVB MRS (0.5%) +UVB


MRS (1%) +UVB


MRS (2.5%) +UVB


Negative control


UVB MRS (0.5%) +UVB


MRS (1%) +UVB


MRS (2.5%) +UVB


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