HAIR CARE 47
Rinse-off products defend hair from pollution
n Xin Qu, Bernice Niu – Ashland, China Tuttu Nuutinen, Bert Kroon – Ashland, The Netherlands Roger Mcmullen, Linda Foltis – Ashland, US
Resulting from rapid industrialisation and urbanisation in Asia, air pollution and protection from it, is an increasing topic of discussion for the worldwide cosmetics market. The search however, continues to find ingredients that demonstrate a higher level of efficacy. In addition to pollution protection for skin care, research on hair care products and ingredients that address the issue is increasing.1-3
Abstract The most common
external stresses to hair include not only mechanical abrasion, chemical damage, UV exposure and thermal treatment, but also exposure to air pollution.4-6 In previous studies, we used cigarette smoke to simulate a polluted environment.7 Briefly, an experiment was performed to understand the impact of pollution on virgin hair and bleached hair. As an indicator of hair protein degradation, the tryptophan content of virgin hair, measured by fluorescence spectrophotometry, decreased after the smoke exposure. Furthermore, both virgin and bleached hair exposed to smoke pollution resulted in hair cuticle damage demonstrated by higher combing force, decrease in contact angle and visually assessed by SEM. The experiment also demonstrated that polyimide-1 delivered from a leave-on hair product can provide
Exposure to air pollution is considered an important external stressor for hair, which can cause damage to the cuticles (higher wet/dry combing energy), protein degradation, and a more hydrophilic hair surface. Compared to leave-on products, rinse-off products, such as shampoo, is much more challenging to deliver the anti-pollution benefit due to the surfactants and rinse process during hair washing. A recently developed conditioning and deposition mechanism was found to be effective in pollution protection of hair from a rinse off product. The hair tresses, washed with a silicone-free shampoo containing 0.2 wt.% acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer (APTAC/ACM), showed, after the first wash, a 3-fold decrease of protein degradation after smoke exposure, as compared to no effect for the shampoos with 0.2 wt.% of conventional conditioning polymers polyquaternium 10 or cationic guar, or untreated tresses. Almost no protein degradation by smoke was seen after a second wash. Furthermore, the tresses, washed with APTAC/ACM containing shampoo, also demonstrated anti-dust deposition benefit.
effective protection against such hair damage on virgin hair.7
Depositing pollution shielding technologies from leave-on cosmetic products is published and available in the market. However, sufficient ingredient deposition from rinse-off products such as shampoo to shield the hair surface presents a challenge due to high surfactant content and rinse process. Air pollution contains toxic gases (ozone, NO, SO etc.), liquid droplets (tar, cooking/fuel fume), and solid
Table 2: Silicone-free shampoo formula for pollution protection test. Ingredient (INCI Name)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES.2EO) Cationic Polymer Carbomer C980 NaOH
Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Sodium Chloride
Coco-amido Propyl Betaine (30%) Dem. Water
Total November 2019
Supplier Rhodia
Ashland Shanghai Chemical Company Ashland
Shanghai Chemical Company Rhodia
Active dosage (%) 12.0 0.2 0.6
Adjust 0.4
1.0 2.0
Ad. To 100 100
particles (PM2.5/10, heavy metal etc.). Air pollution protection includes not only protecting hair from chemical damage (anti- pollution), but also physical adhesion of the pollutants (anti-dust).8 In a current study, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymer (APTAC/ACM) has been evaluated in both silicone-free and silicone-containing shampoos for hair protection from chemical damage i.e. protein degradation and physical impact from dust adhesion. A new conditioning polymer deposition mechanism – “In Situ Controlled Flocculation” (ISCF™) has been introduced. The experiment demonstrated that APTAC/ACM copolymer deposited on hair surface will form a transparent, elastic and hydrophobic complex layer with anionic surfactants during shampoo washing. This hydrophobic complex can provide prevention of dust deposition and effective pollution protection against hair damage.
Materials and methods Materials
The following materials and instruments were used to conduct these studies: Asian or Caucasian virgin and bleached hair (International Hair Importers and Products,
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120
