80 SKIN CARE
Beauty that speaks for you and your generation
n Vichavut Tangkeang – IMCD, Thailand
The personal care industry aim to help people in various generations look better. The study of daily beauty habits of these generations is extremely important. This is the reason why IMCD Personal Care Asia Pacific presents the concept of “beYOUty”. A good personal image has a better chance of success in life.
IMCD will exhibit at in-cosmetics Asia 2019, Bangkok, Thailand. We are proud to share our knowledge in market trends, ingredients, target market segments and solutions that best match with customer formulation needs.
Clean Beauty: Focusing on safety over source
In the past, the cosmetic and personal care market was focused primarily on the efficacy. Nowadays, the trend has been transformed into the safety of ingredients over source. This is the revolution of the personal care market. Clean Beauty is the latest trend that concerns the safety of consumers - it means free from a list of toxic products and ingredients that link to a potentially harmful health effect.1 For another, from Sephora said: “the beauty you want minus the ingredients you might not”.2
Clean Beauty has still not set the definition, regulatory and standard. It can be misunderstood and open to abuse, says Année de Mamiel, founder of de Mamiel skin care and a pioneer of plant-based beauty: “Terms like chemical-free are silly because all ingredients are chemicals, whether they are from nature or synthetic”.3 So, not all-natural ingredients are safe and not all synthetic ingredients are unsafe. A non-profit and non-partisan
organisation such as Environmental Working Group (EWG), a US-based watchdog that verifies green ingredients, is rapidly being adopted in South Korea. Many skin care brands use the “EWG green-safe” to claim and show less interest in free-from ingredient claims. For example, scores 1-2 are low hazards, 3-6 are moderate hazards and 7-10 are high hazards respectively.4
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
within the elastomer network, offering unique sensory, performance, moisturising properties. It provides a rich, yet light, skin- feel upon application.
The highlight of ‘beYOUty’ This year, IMCD’s APAC technical team has customised several formulations on ‘beYOUty’- Beauty that speaks for you and your generation, solutions to your skin issues and inspirations for your daily beauty habit. This concept will position into 3 target market segments with more than 20 formulations, namely Gen Z: iGen, Gen Y: Millennials and Gen X: Forever Young. The innovative formulations will present the most effective ingredients to protect and address the specific skin issues and other main concerns of urban life. Our APAC technical team has developed
the formulations by world-class ingredients from our global and regional suppliers such as Grant Industries Inc., Jan Dekker, ANGUS Chemical Company and Colonial Chemical, Inc. respectively.
Soft non comedogenic shea butter elastomer system with water coated silicone technology
Gransil SiW-038 (INCI name: Dimethicone & Polysilicone-11& Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter & Water & Glycerin & Decyl Glucoside) from Grant Industries Inc. is a water-coated silicone elastomer shea butter dispersion. The shea butter is interspersed
The challenges of dispersing standard silicone elastomers into the water phase are well known. Standard silicone elastomers can be very difficult to disperse uniformly in external water phase emulsions or aqueous gels due to their inability to fit into o/w micelles and general hydrophobic incompatibility with water. Often when processing, excessive levels of surfactants and high shear energy is required to disperse and maintain particles to a stable state. High concentrations of surfactants (which coat particles to maintain a dispersion) unfortunately reduce the elastomer sensory properties by creating tackiness. Surfactants are also more likely to cause skin irritation or some level of barrier disruption. The unique design of versatile Gransil SiW-038 resolves these challenges. The simple way to load silicone elastomers into water-based formulations, Gransil SiW-038 is the new vehicle of choice for creating personal care products and offer formulators the ideal opportunity for loading high levels of Polysilicone-11 elastomer with shea butter into water-based gel structures with minimal use of emulsifiers (at levels below 0.5%), and by cold processing methods. These stable formulations achieved with such low levels of emulsifiers also serve as excellent delivery-bases for active ingredients and can be formulated to offer unique and elegant sensory experience: wet-to-powder transition shown in Figure 1.
The outer water phase cools, soothes and hydrates the skin on contact while seconds later, silicone elastomer particles release from a gel matrix to fill lines, even complexion with a soft powder-like texture. Gransil SiW-038 can also be used to improve the sensory aesthetics of existing emulsions with easy post addition. Applications include: skin care, colour cosmetics, sun care, and hair care.5
All
ingredients inside Gransil SiW-038 are scored 1 or 2 rating on the EWG scale.
November 2019
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