84 SUN CARE
Can you meet the UV-blocking needs of Asia Pacific?
n Cedric Toh – Dow Consumer Solutions, Asia
Consumer preferences in the global skin care industry have shifted over the years, placing equal importance on long-lasting duration, quality aesthetics and comfort of wear. And as the general public’s knowledge around UV damage and skin health increases, consumers are demanding and buying higher levels of protection. Arguably no region personifies these needs quite like the Asia Pacific market, where many consumers seek long-lasting UV protection from products that also promote high degrees of anti-ageing, whitening and brightening. In 2016, the region accounted for nearly 60% of global skin care sales, with developed markets like South Korea showing sustained interest in products that holistically protect the body, face and hands from UV rays.1 Southeast Asia in particular presents a unique opportunity for formulators. Life in many of the region’s emerging economies is increasingly hectic as society becomes modernised, with air pollution and tropical humidity taking a real toll on consumers’ skin. Markets in places like Vietnam represent a microcosm of these trends — as quality of life in the country improves, demand for and access to sophisticated skin care products rise at a commensurate rate. Skin care formulators across Asia should see these challenges as an opportunity to continue innovating their skin care and cosmetics products to include UV blocking ingredients that can also guard against these environmental factors.
Table 1: Dow’s Soltex INO Polymer INCI Name
Appearance Applications
Key Benefits 120 100 T0s 80 60 40 20 0
Silicone Acrylate Benchmark
Figure 1: Epitex 99 Polymer water repellency.
But how can this opportunity be seized? The first step is sourcing ingredients from a globally trusted supplier with a performance-driven, multifunctional portfolio.
Hybrid solution delivers the best of both worlds
One of the primary ingredients among Dow’s sun care portfolio is the new water- based synthetic film-former, Epitex™ 99 Polymer. The new film polymer is a hybrid mixture of silicone and organic acrylates that gives formulators maximum process
Acrylates/Methacryloyloxyethyl Phosphate Copolymer White homogeneous liquid
Sunscreens, skin care, color cosmetics
Higher SPF Better transparency (reduced whiteness) Enhanced sensory experience Improved absorbency Even coverage
Typical Usage Level 1-3% solids, 3-9% as supplied PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
flexibility while enabling the high product performance in delivering high SPF and long-lasting wear that consumers expect in Asia.
Epitex 99 Polymer appears as a white liquid emulsion, and has a maximum 10% recommended use level. This water-based film-former is designed to deliver the long- lasting wear performance of traditional silicone acrylate technology while being a more affordable silicone solution for mass market products. The polymer enables excellent sensorial properties that are ideal for skin and sun care products, exhibiting low tackiness, high smoothness and high slipperiness after absorption. Its tactile property is soft, but not brittle, and the polymer presents very high wash-off resistance.
The hybrid film-former performed as well as a benchmark in testing, while also exhibiting high water repellency, high sebum repellency and high film flexibility. The water-based film-former forms a continuous film for excellent wash-off and rub-off resistance. Its film flexibility provides wearing comfort and is aesthetically pleasing for consumers, and the long- lasting benefits offer a rewarding skin care
November 2019
EPITEXTM Polymer
99
Organic Acrylate Benchmark
Low water repellency
T2min
: dark colors : light colors
High water repellency
Water contact angle (°)
103.6 99.0
102.0 98.9
43.7 31.2
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