SUN CARE 85
experience that protects skin from the sun’s harmful rays.
In addition to its many end-user benefits, the ingredient also boasts a number of advantages for formulators. As a water-based film-former, it allows for greater formulation and manufacturing process flexibility because of its ability to achieve optimal performance in pure film, water-in-oil and oil-in-water formulations. The polymer is also readily compatible with
common cosmetic ingredients, which means formulators can bring the sensory benefits that consumers desire into their sun care, skin care and even cosmetic products like alphabet creams.
Sun care with sophistication With more refined views of skin care being cultivated across the growing Asian market, consumers expect sun care products with both aesthetics and high SPF performance.
Table 2: Sunscreen Formulation A with 6% octylmethoxycinnamate and 1% oxybenzone. Phase Ingredients A
Water, DI
ACULYN 33 Polymer Glycerin
Tetrasodium EDTA B
SUNSPHERES powder Octyl methoxycinnamate Oxybenzone
C12-15 alkyl lactate
PVP/eicosene copolymer Cyclomethicone Stearic acid
C Triethanolamine, 99%
Control % w/w 80.72
3.33 1
0.1 0 6 1 2
1.5 2
1.5 0.85
3.33 1
0.1
5.55 6 1 2
1.5 2
1.5 0.85
Table 3: Sunscreen Formulation B with 7.5% Octylmethoxycinnamate, 2% Oxybenzone and 3% Octyl Salicylate.
Phase Ingredients A
Water, DI
PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer Butyl glycol
B
SUNSPHERES powder PEG-20 Stearate
Glyceryl stearate & laureth-23 Octyldodecyl neopentanoate Octyl palmitate Glyceryl dilaurate
Octyl methoxycinnamate Oxybenzone Octyl salicylate
C Sodium hydroxide 10%
Glyceryl polymethacrylate & propylene glycol
Glyceryl polymethacrylate & propylene glycol & PVM/MA copolymer
D
Diazolidinyl urea & iodopropynyl butylcarbamate Methylparaben
November 2019
Control % w/w 71.7 0.5 3 0
1.5 2 1 2
0.5 7.5 2 3
1.3 3 0.5
0.3 0.2
Test % w/w 66.15 0.5 3
5.55 1.5 2 1 2
0.5 7.5 2 3
1.3 3 0.5
0.3 0.2
A one-two UV protection punch The SPF-enhancing capabilities of this ingredient can be augmented through an oil-in-water emulsion with another prominent Dow ingredient for sun care: SunSpheres™ PGL. This styrene/acrylates copolymer can be combined with the aforementioned SPF booster to more than double the SPF of a given formulation while keeping viscosity within the range of aesthetic approval. Notably, that increase in SPF is achieved synergistically across various surface-treated inorganic filters.
General procedures: l Mix all Phase A ingredients and heat the mixture to 75ºC
l Mix Phase B and heat mixture to 75ºC l Add Phase B to Phase A l Cool to 40ºC and add Phase C (Soltex™ INO Polymer)
l Add Phase D (preservative) l Homogenise for 10 minutes SunSpheres PGL is supplied as a 25.5
percent solids emulsion, but Dow also provides the same UV protection- enhancing properties in the form of a white, non-dusty, flowable powder. Both forms of the additive comprise hollow styrene/acrylic copolymer spheres measuring approximately 350 nm in diameter. Similar to the PGL version of the copolymer, the powdered form enables a generous SPF boost without negative impact on viscosity.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Test % w/w 75.17
Since whitening and anti-ageing products need continually higher SPF levels to counteract the harsh effects of the sun and environmental pollutants, formulators often face difficulty in creating products that do not run or leave white traces. Enter Dow’s Soltex™ INO Polymer, an ingredient that improves product aesthetics of formulations containing inorganic UV filters without compromising SPF performance. Soltex INO Polymer enhances the SPF
performance of various cosmetics by improving the overall dispersion of inorganic particles, such as TiO2
and ZnO, in
sunscreen formulations. This ultimately leads to an improved SPF, product aesthetics and overall sensory experience. Sunscreens that contain inorganic UV actives, such as TiO2
, offer protection by
absorbing and scattering UV light. Particle aggregation can reduce UV attenuation — along with the SPF — of the sunscreen. This proprietary acrylate and
methacryloyloxyethyl phosphate copolymer works by attaching to the TiO2
surface,
which provides more steric hindrance among TiO2
dispersion of TiO2
particles. The enhanced and ZnO makes it
possible to use less of these additives in sun care formulations, achieving the same UV attenuation effect while improving product appearance, aesthetics and user experience.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120
