TEXTURES 67 Hydrolyzed sunflower seed wax (INCI:
Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax) is better suited to emulsions, as it is much more hydrophilic and polar than the regular wax due to the hydrolysis. It consists mainly of free fatty alcohols, free fatty acids, and a small amount of non-hydrolyzed esters.
The sensory analysis (Fig 5) showed that
hydrolyzed sunflower wax was able to greatly increase viscosity and richness of the emulsion. It also improved skin-feel, provided a cushion effect and reduced the unwanted whitening effect (formation of foam during application on the skin). Consistent with this, hydrolyzed sunflower seed wax also showed by far the highest viscosity in the instrumental measurements, a remarkably increase of approx. 160%. Hydrolyzed sunflower wax is suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions and leads to a butter-like, smooth texture and high viscosity.
Rice bran wax
Rice bran wax (INCI: Oryza Sativa Bran Cera), a hard, light-coloured wax, with a high melting point (78–82°C) is a by-product of rice bran oil production. After a complex milling, extraction and refining process, the edible oil, the waxy side product and the raw wax are obtained. The latter is used for the production of rice bran wax, which contains mainly long chained wax esters and higher alcohols. Rheology studies showed that rice bran wax is less dull than most, has the highest rigidity and shows no softening at skin temperatures. It increased the friction of the cream slightly, indicating an increase in viscosity. The sensory analysis (Figure 7) showed the emulsion with rice bran wax had a higher viscosity, while causing less foaming and lubrication. The viscosity enhancing effect can also be observed with the viscometer. Furthermore, rice bran wax provided emulsions with a pleasantly dry skin-feel. Rice bran wax remarkably shows how the
texture of wax olegels can vary greatly depending on the utilised oils. It has the
viscosity lubricity whitening lubricity
Figure 5: Pictures of sunflower wax; left in rice bran oil via cryo-SEM (4); right: in sunflower oil via polarized light microscopy. (3)
tendency to form to create very hard formulations in combination with polar oils, while with nonpolar emollients it produces very creamy and soft, low viscous textures. This behaviour can be attributed to the formation of different crystal structures. Studies have found that rice wax in rice bran oil forms long dendritic crystals, which interconnect to form a branched network with many voids resulting in weak gelling ability and low oil binding capacity. 4, 6, 8
In
polar oils, like olive and canola oil, its crystals have a thin long needle-like shape, which positively contribute to gelation, forming a hard and stable network.6,9 This is especially interesting considering that rice bran wax has a very similar chemical composition to sunflower seed wax. The formation of the above mentioned dendritic molecules, which interfere with the network development, is
n Placebo n Hydrolyzed sunflower seed wax viscosity whitening
presumed to be a result of the minor free fatty acid fraction present in rice bran wax.10 Rice bran wax forms soft, matte oleogels with a pleasant non-sticky texture suitable for lipsticks, mascara and hair styling wax. However, as seen above it can be problematic as the only wax in a formulation and might has to be combined with other waxes to form a good network structure.
Berry wax
Berry wax (INCI: Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera/Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera) is derived from berry fruit peels of the Rhus verniciflua tree native to China and the Indian subcontinent. The wax is from the dried berries, which are pressed, washed with hot water, and boiled out while the wax is skimmed off the surface. Berry wax is a very soft, cream white-coloured wax with a high content of triglycerol ester of C16/C18 fatty acids.
n Placebo n Rice bran wax
Table 1: Rigidity and softening of pure waxes as measured by rheometer Sample Beeswax Tea wax
Sunflower seed wax Rice bran wax Carnauba wax
Rigidity at 25°C 2.1 1.9 2.3 2.4 2.3
Rigidity at 32°C 1.8 1.7 2.3 2.4 2.3
% Softening 16.7 10.5 0 0 0
skin absorption
skin feel
skin absorption
skin feel
richness
cushion effect Figure 6:Sensory profile of an O/W emulsion with 3% hydrolyzed sunflower seed wax. November 2019
richness
cushion effect Figure 7: Sensory profile of an O/W emulsion with 3% rice bran wax. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120
