20 ANTI-AGEING
expression of MFN2 up to 80%, compared to estradiol, which is considered as a good promoter of the fusion. These results of the increase of the gene
expression of ACP and MFN2 demonstrate the ability of the ingredient to increase the expression of genes related to energetic production and mitochondrial fusion. l 1.3 COL3A1 – Codifying gene of Type III Collagen To see the effect of the active over the
production of biomolecules that are important for skin restructuring, the gene expression of COL3A1, of Type III collagen, more present in younger skins, was studied. The results show that the active increases the synthesis of this type of collagen up to 160% compared to estradiol.
Density and mitochondrial fusion Using confocal microscopy and fluorescence markers, mitochondrial membrane fusions were studied in Human Dermal Fibroblasts (HDF), using flux cytometry (FC 500 Flow Cytometer (Beckman Coulter®
)). The mitochondrial
membrane fusion of untreated HDF was compared to the one of HDF treated with estradiol 2 µM, and to that of HDF treated with 0.1% Olea Vitae PLF
during 24h.
The red fluorescence marker shows the cell membrane. The green fluorescence marker (TMR dye) shows the mitochondria: more green fluorescence indicates more mitochondrial activity and more fusions. These fusions increase the efficiency of the electron transfer from NADH to the respiratory chain, and, therefore, the production of cellular energy.
In vivo efficacy In vivo tests were performed to demonstrate
700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
Control (untreated) 6-fold 4-fold
Oestradiol
2 uM
Olea Vitae PLF
0.1%
Figure 5: Gene expression of COL3A1.
the anti-ageing and revitalising effect of the active. The tests were carried out in 25 female volunteers coursing menopause (between 51 and 65 years old). This panel was chosen to study the effect of the active in an extreme case of energetic ageing, in which mature skin has lost its vitality, as well as its structure and hydration, due to the loss of estrogens.11
The
study was a double blind hemi-facial assay, applying a cream with 1% of the active twice a day. Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), firmness, elasticity and skin thickness were measured and a clinical evaluation and profilometry of wrinkles were carried out, at initial time, 28 and 56 days after the beginning of treatment. The results showed:
TEWL: Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (Tewameter 300® electroinic GmbH)
, Courage+Khazaka,
The active significantly decreased the TEWL at 28 days (average of 5,5%, and up to 17%
4 +2.2% 2 +1.2%
Cream with 1% Olea Vitae PLF
0
Placebo cream
-2
Placebo cream
Cream with 1% Olea Vitae PLF
Skin firmness (reduction of the Uf parameter) and net elasticity of the skin (increase of the Ur/Ue parameter): (Cutometer®
MPA 580, Courage+Khazaka,
electroinic GmbH) The active ingredient significantly reduces the Uf parameter at 28 days (an average of 17% with a maximum reduction of 44%) and at 56 days (average of 20% with a maximum of 40% reduction), therefore increasing the skin firmness.
The active also significantly increases the Ur/Ue parameter at 28 days (16% on average, up to 69%) and at 56 days
reduction), and at 56 days (average 7% with a maximum reduction of 30%). The decrease of water loss means an increase of skin hydration, which is achieved because the ingredient provides the skin with the necessary lipids for the stratum corneum to be in optimal condition.
-4
-6
Clear mitochondrial synapses formation
Higher mitochondrial density and stronger mitochondrial inter-connection
Figure 6: Density and mitochondrial fusion. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
-5.5% ***
-8 Figure 7: Trans-Epidermal Water Loss, TEWL November 2019 -7%
Col3A1
Δ TEWL (vs initial time)
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