72 TEXTURES
and suspension while creating elegant formulations.
Hectorite might well be considered the ‘Queen of Clay’. It is formed from a combination of factors, one of which is a volcanic eruption. This type of clay rests under a ‘lava blanket’. Clay formed under extreme environmental conditions such as high heat and pressure have uniform particle size and charge density. This means it has a higher negative surface area charge to attract more positively charged bits of dirt stuck in the pores of the skin. Its pinky cream texture when applied lightly leaves a soft blurring effect. When it is applied in a mask, it can leave a spongy squidgy feel once dry that can easily be rubbed off leaving skin soft and detoxified.
Rheology and clay Achieving texture and product performance goals are tied directly to the rheology of a cosmetic, skin care or sun care product. Effective rheology control using multi- functional, natural clay-based rheology modifiers offers a positive impact on formulas and consumer perception. Rheological additives can be broadly divided between aqueous-phase thickeners and non-aqueous-phase thickeners. Natural hydrophilic clays act as aqueous phase thickeners and provide thixotropy and suspension control in the aqueous phase of formulations. They are insensitive to temperature variation, so they impart thermostable viscosity control in formulas. Due to their efficiency in water and easy processing, they can be extremely versatile. Their uniqueness lies in their ability not only to thicken water, but also in the pleasant silky texture they impart during and after application. Using natural clay- based rheology modifiers will create novel and memorable sensory experiences or suspending effect of pigments or mineral sunscreens.
By adjusting the rheology of a system, the user experience will change. A user’s perception of key performance attributes such as moisturisation, skin protection, and anti-ageing benefits are tied to rheology properties of a system.
Emulsifying gels using clay Emulsifiers are considered mainstays in the world of personal care product development and manufacturing as critical ingredients for the success of cosmetic formulations. The types and uses of emulsifiers continually evolve to meet both the needs of formulators seeking multi- functionality and ease of use and changing consumer preferences concerning sensory expectations, naturals, and clean beauty. The development of multi-functional clay-based emulsifying gels (INCI Name: Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride (and)
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Effect of Water Concentration 12% BENTONE LUXE Win In Water/oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
1600 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0
10
Increased water concentration increases the stability of the formulation, while creating a bouncy quick break effect
20 Figure 3: Effect of water content.
Raspberry Ripple High Water Content For Water Release Effect
10000 1000 100 10 1
0.1 0.1 Figure 4: Flow profile.
Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Polyglyceryl- 3 Diisostearate (and) Polglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate) deliver on many of these formulator and consumer preferences allowing for the creation of innovative cosmetic formulations. The combination of emulsification and rheology control in one ingredient creates extremely stable emulsions with unique textures. For
formulators, the ability to use a cold process saves time and energy, helping to reduce processing cost and carbon footprint. Clay-based gels are especially suitable for water-in-silicone and water-in- oil emulsions, but do not have the heavy feel typically associated with these types of systems.
Clay emulsifying gels can be high
viscosity, yet shear-thinning. Thus, formulations containing this type of gel can be applied easily without leaving a greasy film on the skin and allows for high oil concentrations that can be used for dry, damaged skin while also maintaining a light and silky skin-feel. The unique ability to deliver high concentrations of oil with a dry, elegant skin feel provides flexibility over all skin types. Specifically for sunscreen products,
Figure 5: Raspberry Ripple Product.
there is a need to reduce the unpleasant greasiness that is attributed to sunscreen actives. Clay-based emulsifying gels have better suspension of actives and impart rheology that allows for easy application that delivers a uniform layer of actives on the skin providing enhanced SPF and water resistance.
November 2019 1 10 Shear Rate (1/s) 100 1000
Emulsion Break Effect Moisture release onto lips
30
40 % Water
50
60
70
80
Viscosity Pas at 0.1 s-1 Viscosity (Pas)
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