68 TEXTURES
Sensory analysis (Fig 7) showed that emulsions with berry wax were perceived as richer, and more lubricious, while also having a better skin-feel and a higher viscosity. Berry wax also provided a rich and creamy texture with no waxy after-feel to the emulsion. Those sensory attributes can be linked to the fact that, although the melting point is at around 52°C, about 20% of the wax already melts below 30°C. Consequently, berry wax partially melts on skin contact, which improves the way emulsions feel on the skin, and supports a luxury, creamy, and nurturing skin-feel. Berry wax has a moderate oil binding capacity and is therefore not sufficient as the only wax in an anhydrous formulation. This is backed up by studies, which found that in high oleic sunflower oil berry wax shows platelet-like crystals in spherical aggregates, which form a rather weak but elastic network.3 As most of the fatty acids in berry wax are not free, but esterified in a glycerol backbone as triglycerides and diglycerides, it displays a slow crystallization, so viscosity and stability of oleogels can increase with storage time.6 Most interestingly, however, studies have shown that berry wax is able to enhance and stabilise structures formed by other crystalising materials such as high melting waxes (e.g. rice, sunflower, candelilla wax). In a process called “sintering”, berry wax’s needle- like crystals are able to reinforce network structures by forming solid crystal bridges between the pre-existing crystals.4 Berry wax is a multifunctional material,
which provides a super soft, and silky skin-feel and creates creamy textures even at low levels in O/W emulsions. It makes creams whiter, the droplet size smaller, and consequently has a positive influence on the emulsion’s stability. In anhydrous formulations it works as a pay-off enhancer and lubricating additive and improves stability and breakage resistance.
Conclusion
As shown, each wax has their own distinct properties, which are also influenced by oils
Figure 8: Light microscopy picture of rice bran wax in rice bran oil (left) (4) and canola oil (right). (11)
and other ingredients present in cosmetic formulations. Tea wax is a very novel wax with a characteristic natural scent and flavour. It shows some similarities to beeswax but, contrastingly, provides a soft, rich skin-feel similar to an emollient.
Sunflower seed wax is very well suited for
anhydrous formulations in which it creates very stable and dense oleogels and provides an outstanding oil binding capacity. Hydrolyzed sunflower seed on the other hand is ideal for emulsions, offering high viscosity as well as a rich butter-like texture. Rice bran wax gives formulations a matte appearance as well as a pleasantly dry skin- feel without any stickiness. The hardness of its crystal networks can vary greatly and should ideally be complemented by other crystallising materials like berry wax. Berry wax is a multifunctional ingredient, which is very popular in natural skin care formulations. It provides a super soft, and silky skin-feel and creates creamy textures while also being able to stabilise networks formed by other crystallising materials such as high melting waxes. Texture and sensorial attributes are one of the most important aspects of cosmetic formulations, often taking essential influence on purchasing decisions. Natural waxes are remarkable materials that display a large number of different characteristics and can be
viscosity lubricity n Placebo n Berry wax
utilised to create a wide variety of different textures and sensorial properties.
References 1 Hoeu K. Part 1 product development: Why is
texture so important in skincare? [Internet]. New York: BeautyMatter; 2018 [cited 2019 Jun 28].
2 Neophytou L, Mills J. Top Trends in Skincare and Make-up 2018 [Internet]. London: GlobalData; 2018. CS1807CT.
3 Patel A R, Babaahmadi M, Lesaffer A, Dewettinck K. Rheological Profiling of Organogels Prepared at Critical Gelling Concentrations of Natural Waxes in a Triacylglycerol Solvent. J Agr Food Chem. 2015; 63 (19): 4862–4869.
4 Tavernier I, Doan C D, Van de Walle D, Danthine S, Rimaux T, Dewettinck K. Sequential crystallization of high and low melting waxes to improve oil structuring in wax-based oleogels. RSC Adv. 2017; 7: 12113–12125.
5 Hwang H, Kim S, Evans K O, Koga C, Lee Y. Morphology and networks of sunflower wax crystals in soybean oil organogel. Food Structure 2015 July; 5, 10–20.
6 Doan C D, Tavernier I, Okuro P, Dewettinck K. Internal and external factors affecting the crystallization, gelation and applicability of wax- based oleogels in food industry. Innov Food Sci Emerg Technol 2017 September; 45: 42–52.
7 Doan C D, Tavernier I, Sintang M D B, Danthine S, Van de Walle D, Rimaux T, Dewettinck K. Crystallization and gelation behavior of low-and high melting waxes in rice bran oil: A case-study on berry wax and sunflower wax. Food Biophysics 2016; 12(1): 97–108.
whitening
8 Doan C D, Van de Walle D, Dewettinck K, Patel A R. Evaluating the oil-gelling properties of natural waxes in rice bran oil: Rheological, thermal, and microstructural study. J Am Oil Chem Soc 2015; 92(6): 801–881.
9 Dassanayake L S K, Kodali D R, Ueno S, Sato K. Physical properties of rice bran wax in bulk and organogels. J Am Oil Chem Soc 2009; 86(12): 1163–1173.
skin absorption skin feel
10 Doan C D, To C M, De Vrieze M, Lynen F, Danthine S, Brown A, Dewettinck K, Patel A R. Chemical profiling of the major components in natural waxes to elucidate their role in liquid oil structuring. Food Chemistry 2017; 214: 717–725.
richness cushion effect Figure 9: Sensory profile of an O/W emulsion with 3% berry wax. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
11 Blake A I, Co E D, Marangoni A G. Structure and Physical Properties of Plant Wax Crystal Networks and Their Relationship to Oil Binding Capacity. J Am Oil Chem Soc 2014; 91(6): 885–903.
November 2019 PC
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