SKIN PROTECTION 89
Microalgal strategy against UV and blue light hazards
n Liliane Pellegrini, Max Pellegrini, Aurélie Zamboni – Gelyma, France Francine Joly – Sephra, France
UV and blue light exposure induces specific as well as overlapping and synergistic effects on the skin, consequently inducing important damages. UVA radiation (320 - 400 nm) penetrates deeply in the dermal layers, generating reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS and RNS respectively) that alter proteins, lipids and DNA. It therefore contributes to premature skin ageing, wrinkle formation with a risk of cancer through the formation of oxidised DNA bases.
UVB radiation (290 - 320 nm) is biologically very active. It penetrates the superficial layers of the skin up to the basal layer of the epidermis, where it also generates dangerous ROS and RCS (reactive carbonyl species) leading to inflammation, sunburn and skin ageing. The high-energy photons of UVB can also be directly absorbed by cell’s DNA bases that cause mutagenic lesions and mutations in skin cells, associated to skin cancer development. Visible light presents a high energy visible zone (HEV) between 380 - 495 nm, that corresponds to blue-violet. It is also generated, indoors, by artificial sources such as electronic devices e.g. cell phones and computers as well as LED lighting. It also penetrates deeply into biological tissues and about 20% reach the hypodermis. However it affects the skin differently than UV rays without any association with sunburn and skin cancer. It can cause photoageing and formation of age spots as UVA and UVB through many ways, especially oxidative damages. So, UV exposure as well as high energy blue-light exposure, generate ROS that contributes to skin ageing. Consequently, the prevention of such exposure became a big health concern. Nowadays, skin protection is no longer the only focus of the effects of UV radiation. Indeed, other wavelengths, such as blue light, also induce damaging effects on skin. It appears that a UVA/UVB sunscreen may not be sufficient to bring a global protection. Skin should also be protected
November 2019 Abstract
Until recently, skin protection was mainly focused on the effects of UV radiation on skin. However, we nowadays need to take into account the damaging effects of other wavelengths, in particular blue light. Indeed, blue light penetrates deeper into the skin than UV rays. It represents 50% of the energy emitted by the sun and almost 100% of the energy emitted by artificial sources. It appears that regular sunscreens may not be sufficient to bring a global protection. , developed and sold by Gelyma, provides an efficient and overall skin
Sun’Alg®
protection against the harmful damage caused by the exposure to UV radiation as well as to blue light. It therefore helps to minimise signs of premature photoageing.
from HEV light/blue light exposure. It is well demonstrated that an application of a UVA/UVB sunscreen is unable to inhibit free radicals generated by visible light, whereas the addition of a combination of antioxidants to the formulation significantly reduces their number by 54%.1
Moreover a
cream with a SPF 50 and high UVA protection appears only efficient at 53% against solar-generated ROS without any protection against visible light induced ROS.2
Antioxidants are naturally present in human skin to provide protection from solar assaults but the protective capacity of the skin is rapidly depleted by even moderate UV light exposure.3
The irradiation of the human skin with blue-violet light also induces dose- dependent significant degradation of the epidermal antioxidants.4 Consequently, it appears important to neutralise the influence of reactive species emitted from visible radiation, in particular from the blue light, in addition to an efficient UVA/UVB protection and to consider the additional protective benefits of carotenoids.
Botanical antioxidants have been
reported to have a good potential as photoprotective agents.5
offer a high capacity to produce antioxidative compounds6
Microalgae also and a great
potential to protect skin from damage caused by UV irradiation7-8 light irradiation.9
concern Tetraselmis suecica7
These algal species and also
as well as by blue
SA is stable to temperature (80°C) and UVA/UVB irradiation and it is non
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Scenedesmus rubescens.8-9 Our claim was to investigate the cutaneous photoprotective effects of other microalgal species, in particular Haematococcus pluvialis (red state) and Dunaliella salina, both known to be rich in carotenoids.
Material and methods Preparation of the microalgal complex The microalgal complex studied named Sun’Alg (SA) was prepared from Haematococcus pluvialis (red state) and Dunaliella salina in Pongamia glabra seed oil (Karanja seed oil).
INCI name is: Pongamia glabra seed oil (and) Dunaliella Salina/Haematococcus Pluvialis extract.
This 100% natural complex contains:
l 96% (w/w) Pongamia glabra seed oil (Karanja seed oil, deodorised grade) provides a primary shield against UV radiation, acting as a natural sunscreen thanks to its high absorption ability especially for UVB but also for UVA.
l 4% (w/w) two microalgal extracts (2% each) bring additional protective capacity against the oxidative stress thanks to their mixed carotenoids composition: l Dunaliella salina is mainly rich in β−carotene,
l Haematococcus pluvialis (red state) is mostly rich in astaxanthin.
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