REGULATIONS 53
Helping to navigate the industry’s ‘green wave’
n Flora Pense – Coptis, Singapore
Nowadays plant-based products are witnessing popularity among cosmetic customers who tend to look for different cosmetic products with a shorter ingredients list. This green wave, as it could be called, has been expanding over the last decade; it has seen exponential growth and as of 2009 was worth an estimated US$ 6.6 billion dollars.1
Given past trends, market
research companies have indicated that the industry is expected to keep growing rapidly in the coming years, and indeed, the market was estimated to have a revenue of US$ 34.5 billion in 2018.2
With
such great market expansion, the cosmetic industry must make changes in the composition of their products or think differently for the future. In a fragmented market where numerous labels for natural products coexist, the International Organization for Standardization issued global guidelines on definitions for natural and organic ingredients (ISO 16128-1:2016) and global guidelines on the criteria for natural and organic ingredients and products (ISO 16128-2:2017). This new norm was established to harmonise but also standardise the organic and natural cosmetic market through definitions and calculation methods. Coptis Lab is a software suite that has been specifically designed to help laboratories create new cosmetic formulas efficiently without going back and forth. You will be able to access features such as: automated compliance check, warning on non-certified ingredients, automated calculation of raw materials origin and even more. Established in 1999 by Anne Karagoz, formerly of YSL and Sanofi, today there are more than 3,000 Coptis users in the cosmetic field. From the marketing brief to the production, having a system that help boosting R&D processes is a must have today specially when customers are so demanding. The impact of the development of natural and organic cosmetics is undoubtedly significant, that is why Coptis Lab has included a new automated feature around ISO 16128 to
November 2019
help laboratories improve their products and create new ones. This paper will summarise this norm before showing how software can help develop natural products besides saving time.
ISO 16128
After 6 years of negotiation, 40 countries have approved ISO16128 that brings together standardisation bodies in 163 countries. This recently published International Standard has been divided into two parts: the first part defines four ingredient categories, such as organic, organic origin, natural and natural origin.3 And since cosmetics are all the product of a unique blend of ingredients that each belongs to one of these categories (or none of them), it also provides common methods for calculating the natural or organic compounds of the final formula.
What is a natural or organic ingredient? A natural product should be exclusively extracted from plants, animals, microorganisms, minerals or from a material with the same origin. Not only the origin, but also process of extraction or production is considered in this definition, therefore there is a list of approved processes under ISO16128-1:2016 Annex A &B. For an organic ingredient it has to be issued from organic farming depending on the country’s regulation; such as the AB label in France or Bio-Siegel in Germany, it could also come from wild culture. Derivatives of natural and
organic ingredients can also be part of a natural product. In this case it has to be at least 50% natural and for organic origin ingredients, it must contain at least a fragment of the organic molecule. Then added to these definitions are the various kinds of water in formulation, being constitutional water or reconstituted water or extraction water. Finally, if it is none of these then it is formulation water. Considering every definition, raw material manufacturers will be able to classify their ingredients into those classes when applicable.
How to calculate the percentage of natural ingredients for a finished product?
For each substance an index must be evaluated, then can be calculated the natural content of a product.4
This content
can be calculated with the formulation water, in which case it will be:
Or it can be calculated without it:
Figure 1: Coptis Ingredients search module. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
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