40 MEN’S GROOMING Decrease of wrinkles
n D0 n D28
Day 0 Day 28
-14% -21% Surface Figure 2a: Decrease of wrinkles.
gave the following results: l 61% said wrinkles appeared to be reduced l 65% fine lines appeared reduced l 52% said their skin looked firmer l 57% said their skin looked younger l 74% said their skin looks brighter The ingredient showed efficacy on three levels of wrinkle reduction. Firstly a decrease of the total surface of wrinkles of 21%; then a decrease of the number of wrinkles of 14%; and finally a decrease of the length of the wrinkles of 19%.
In vitrotest results Increasing the synthesis of fibres in the dermis In the dermis, the extra cellular matrix (ECM) is made of different non cellular components, and provides not only essential physical scaffolding for the cellular constituents but also initiates crucial biochemical and biomechanical cues that are required for tissue morphogenesis, differentiation and homeostasis. It is made of water, polysaccharids and proteins; the two main classes of macromolecules are proteoglycans and fibrous proteins like collagens, elastins, fibronectins and laminins synthetised by fibroblasts, the dermis cells.
Actually the ECM is a highly dynamic
structure that is constantly being remodelled, either enzymatically or non- enzymatically. The ECM generates the biochemical and mechanical properties of skin, such as its tensile and compressive strength, elasticity, and also mediates
Study of the neosynthesis of collagens Concentration of hydroxyproline (mg/L) +19% +27% +31% Number -19% Lenght Figure 2b: Clinical study photography.
protection by a buffering action that maintains extracellular homeostasis and water retention. With ageing, the synthesis of the different macromolecules made by fibroblasts decreases, then the biochemical cues in the ECM are modified, therefore its properties decrease too.
Naolys studied two main components of the ECM: proteoglycans and collagens (Fig 3). Proteoglycans are made of a combination of a protein and a GAG. As they are made of long O-glycolised chains, they are like “water traps”. They have buffering, hydration, binding and force- resistance properties.
Collagen is the most abundant fibrous
protein within the interstitial ECM and constitutes the main structural element of the ECM; collagens provide tensile strength, regulate cell adhesion, support chemotaxis and migration, and direct tissue development.
Most of the skin’s water is found in the
dermis, thanks to protein-based macromolecules known as proteoglycans. The glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) that are attached to the matrix can fix large quantities of water. Water in the dermis does not circulate much, however a small proportion of this water passes through the epidermis. In the study of the synthesis of
proteoglycans, at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the perimembran proteoglycans rate increases by 17%, 22% and 27% respectively; the transmembran proteoglycans rate increases by 19%, 23%
Study of the static water (3
H)-H2 O (cpm) n Control n MRS (0.5%) n MRS (1%) n MRS (2.5%) +24% +30% +35% +29% +36% +43%
and 24% respectively; the matricial proteoglycans rate increases by 20%, 26% and 30% respectively.
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the neosynthesis of collagens rate increases by 19%, 27% and 31% respectively.
Study of hydration
Dehydrated skin contains less than 10% water in the corneous layer, as a result of shaving for instance, which damages the hydrolipidic film: the corneous layer becomes rough and brittle, and its structure is compromised. To study the effect of the sequoia plant cells’ activity on water in the epidermis, Naolys looked at two types of water in the epidermis with different functions, both of which are essential to maintaining epidermal health.
Static water (Fig 4), that cannot move, is located in stratum corneum, or called ‘‘water linked to corneocytes’’ thanks to the NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) and between corneocytes, where water is trapped by lipids, especially ceramides, that are located in the hydrolipidic film. It gives elasticity and suppleness to skin. Dynamic water that moves, circulates
from the dermis to the several layers of the epidermis, also called transepidermic flux. That water from the dermis is essential to the epidermis nutrition for the nutrients it brings. It helps protection and homeostasis in the epidermis.
In the study of static water, it was shown
Control MRS(0.5%) MRS(1%) MRS(2.5%) Figure 3: Study of neosynthesis of collagens. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
T0 + 15 min Figure 4: Study of static water. November 2019
T0 + 30 min
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