18 ANTI-AGEING
Through a driven cell membrane disruption process, it has been possible to identify, produce and release, making them bioavailable, the lipid RAFTs, these unique lipid fractions, from the inside of the stem cell plant membranes. These PLF are a real cellular oil, made of signalling lipids analogous to the ones synthesised by the mitochondria, and it has been demonstrated that they stimulate mitochondrial communication, ending up in the formation of mitochondrial synapses, and thus, igniting and recovering the energy and vitality levels of the epidermal cells.
Thanks to this new technology platform it is possible, for the first time, to modify the composition of the cell membrane lipidome, to target different biological functions, and make it available for the skin, with a new and very innovative raw material source. The introduction of this plant cellular oil in the cosmetic market represents a new development in the use of natural resources in a different, efficient and innovative way.
What is a cellular oil? A cellular oil is not really an oil as we knew them until now. It is a lipid dispersion in an aqueous medium from the plant stem cell membranes. These membrane lipids are released to the aqueous medium through a disruption process, to make them bioavailable: they arise from a plant cell membrane and they can work in skin cell membranes. This is the first time an active ingredient based on plant cell cultures is focused on the lipid fraction of the culture. Their origin and composition are what make the cellular oil different: It is special and unique, since it comes from plant stem cell membranes and, in terms of composition, it contains a wide variety of different kinds of
Table 1: Plant Oil Vs Cellular oil Traditional oils
Polar Lipids (=70%)
Composition Mainly fatty acid
Apolar Lipids (=30%)
Origin
Biological functions
New applications Sustainability
Energy storage, vehicle for essences & Volatiles
+ + PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC Intact cell membrane 1. Ultrasound disruption
3. Cellular Oil
2. Enzymatic digestion
Figure 2: Phyto-lipidic fractions, the first cellular oil: innovative cell membrane disruption process to release the lipid rafts.
high added-value lipids. The real value of the cellular oil is the diversity of its components and its activity. 70% of these lipids are polar and the other 30% are apolar. Qualitatively, this ratio is very interesting because of the existing synergy among those lipids
The first cellular oil
Since mitochondria generate cellular energy, they can be compared to the batteries of an electronic device. Just like what happens with cell phone or laptop batteries, mitochondria also have something similar to a programmed obsolescence. With age, stress, etc., cells are not properly charged even though there
Cellular Oil
Very rich & diverse Glycolipids
Phospholipids Glycerides
Alcohols
Free Fatty Acids Esters
Cell Membrane
Structural, cell signalling, transporting, communication, anchoring of proteins & sugars
+++ +++
22% 78% 25%
36%
23% 16%
is available fuel to burn. A new and innovative active ingredient
made from plant stem cells is able to recharge these mature cells from the inside, so they get back to the charging levels of the younger cells. Through the new active Ole VitaePLF
, the first cellular oil, it has been
possible to stimulate mitochondrial synapses, activating the energetic rejuvenating cycles. The ingredient represents the first generation of biomimetic plant cell lipids, with a similar composition than the mitochondrial membrane lipids: it helps the cells to fight the mitochondrial programmed obsolescence, and it efficiently increases the internal energy levels of the cells. The final result is a recharge of the skin energy, and skin revival. This active ingredient (INCI name: Olea
Europaea (Olive) Callus Culture Lysate) is made from plant stem cells of the wild olive tree sprouts (Olea europaea var. sylvestris), through the technology platform Plant Cell Biofactories. Olive trees are characterised for their resilience against drought and high temperatures, as well as for their vitality and longevity. Specifically, the wild olive tree has been selected because it maintains more genetic diversity, as it has not been selected over centuries to optimise the oil and olive production (which is what happens with the cultivated variety). The active works as a revitaliser of
mature skin as well as skin that has lost its vitality, and that is affected by energetic ageing, using the new mechanism of action of stimulation of the mitochondrial synapses. Olea VitaePLF
works
synergistically, stimulating the communication between mitochondria,
November 2019
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