54 REGULATIONS
Where: l C_H20
product, with or without formulation water included as ingredient;
& C+H20
l P is the mass percentage of each ingredient with/ without formulation water;
l In is the corresponding natural ingredient index of the product. This natural content (In) is
corresponding in percentage in mass from 0% to 100% of every natural ingredient inside that same product. Identical calculations are applicable for organic (Io), organic origin (Ioo), and natural origin (Ino) ingredients.
How software can help developing products under ISO 16128? With Coptis you have access to two complementary solutions. The first one is Coptis Ingredients: a database made of 15000+ raw materials data, you will be able to look for ingredients that fall under an ISO 16128 category. For instance, if you are looking for an organic oil to add to your cosmetic, you can find a reference in our database using an advanced search module. With ISO16128:part 1, raw material manufacturers can identify their natural product and calculate the appropriate index.
The second solution is Coptis Lab
software - under the Raw Material module you can manage your own data, and the natural content of each ingredient can then be saved. As explained in the norm, an ingredient can be a mixture and have several origins, in which case you will find the appropriate percentage under the corresponding category - for example in Coptis you will see the natural content registered as a percentage where an index could be 0.7, so this corresponds to 70% natural content (for instance with an antioxidant which is at 70% issued from a plant and 30% synthetic). In the end, only 70% natural origin content will be considered for a final formula under ISO 16128. Having direct access to this information and being able to save them is an added value when you are using Coptis software. This is both useful for cosmetics but also ingredient manufacturers who have to track their ingredients on this matter.
Automatically helping with natural content calculation
As mentioned, Coptis Lab is software to manage R&D data while having access to multiple automated features. For ISO 16128, Coptis Lab will centralise every raw material data with a percentage of natural content to then calculate the natural percentage of your finished product automatically.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC is natural content of a
Figure 2: Automatic calculation of natural content for a formula under Coptis Lab.
for a natural or organic ingredient using the search module. Then you will simply create a formula and Coptis will automatically calculate the natural content for each category, including and excluding formulation water. We can take an example to illustrate - a formula with 10 raw materials from several origins, with or without organic certification and with one silicone. In that formula, shown in Figure 2, the total percentage is 100% then 83.4% of that is natural content including formulation water while it is 58.5% excluding formulation water. The calculation, as we have seen on the first page, was automatically done on each category for each raw material depending on their final concentration in the product. This is also available with pre-mix used in a final formula. To see the detail, you can even print a formula report that will show the content of each ingredient. With a database merging raw material information and software to manage your own data as an evolved laboratory book, it is easier to save time and spend more time to think about products of tomorrow.
Going further on natural product development
The first step will be to look
ISO 16128 does not address product communication (e.g. claims and labelling), human safety, environmental safety and the characteristics of packaging materials or regulatory requirements applicable for cosmetics. Coptis Lab already integrates enhanced features such as automated compliance check, SDS creation, alerts on certification or blacklists of chosen substances. This maximises the reliability of global regulatory compliance and full
traceability and authentication of all critical data involved in a development project. For instance, to develop a natural product to be exported without using any silicones, Coptis will access all your data, merge them and create alerts, as shown in Figure 3.
Under one same screen you have access to alerts on certified ingredients (here 9% of the formula are certified under Ecocert), country regulation automatic check (spotted with a blue cell but there is another accessible screen for detail), raw material status (orange for limited use under RM code), INCI blacklisted (black cell under the percentage) and even more, not visible here, with price simulation, comparison of trials… etc. These have been all developed to help formulators centralising data and increase the speed of development process to go faster to market.
Conclusion
The industry standards are under constant change, which must be treated as another great challenge. In addition, natural products coming with transparency have gained greater importance. Digital access makes it possible to anticipate formulation triggers from the initial steps of product development and as soon as the marketing brief is received. To follow the actual trend but also develop “greener” products, automated features will help you to know the natural content of your cosmetic, in one click. Coptis Lab is the industry’s software designed specifically for cosmetic product formulations, regulatory and safety. The result of using Coptis Lab will be reducing time to market with utmost reliability of information.
PC November 2019
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