SKIN CARE 81 The Gransil SiW sensory experience


As volatiles and water start to evaporate after an initial application to skin the particle distribution changes into a more dense and compact line filling and light diffusing consistency


loss of water and volatiles after application


Initial sensory: moist, cool, hydrating Figure 1: The Gransil SiW sensory experience: create new platforms.


One ingredient, endless formulation Dekanex FG Series (INCI Name: Hydrogenated Polydecene) from Jan Dekker is produced by oligomerisation of a pure compound, 1-decenes. Now, the availabilty of Dekanex FG offers three grades (2004 FG, 2006 FG, and 2008 FG respectively) and each grade contains specific oligomer profiles (Table 1). Specific oligomers of each grade have


different viscosity and skin-feel, enabling an exact choice of Dekanex to provide desired skin-feel and can be used in many applications with a completely safe for consumers. The Dekanex FG series complies with the very strict ‘Hot Acid Test’ as mentioned in the food monograph, shown in Figure 2. This test demonstrates the absence of chemical functionality (carboxyl groups, double bonds or polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon). This material has a favourable safety


profile, non-orally toxic, non-irritating, non-


Table 1: List of the main compounds and relative classes present in the RrHEs. Dekanex 2004 FG


2006 FG


Oligomer distribution (%) C30


C40 C50 C60 C70


70-85 13-25 0-5


0-0.7


13-37 35-70 9-25 1-7 0-2


sensitising, while the product stays in the external skin layers and is ideal for baby care, sensitive skin, and teenager products. The testing for teenage skin was conducted on 20 females who applied Dekanex FG series on half their face, twice daily, for 30 days. All grades, no statistical in comedones were found.


In lipstick applications, the exposure is well below the acceptable daily intake (ADI)


2008 FG


max. 15 25-45 25-41 13-28 0-10


when eaten, which is a comforting idea in this application. Compliance with parameters in the food monograph provides additional confidence, can improve colour uniformity, strength, spreadability, high reflective index value and reduce pigment content load (better colour intensity), in tests with D&C Red 7 Ca-lake. In sun care applications, it is comfortable


to formulate with chemical and physical UV filters and increasing UV absorption at 290nm with 50 and 75% in comparison to caprylic/capric triglycerides and octyl stearate respectively.6


Dekanex FG series scored 1 on the EWG scale.


Multifunctional performance in a wide range of applications In today’s market, triethanolamine (TEA) is used in various cosmetic and personal care products and can be found in hair care, hair dyes, cream, lotion, and toiletry products. TEA is a tertiary amine that contains an


Figure 2: Dekanex 2006 FG (left tube) in “Hot Acid Test” (a strict test in the food monograph) showing its excellent purity in comparison to other commercially available hydrogenated polydecene.


November 2019


alpha-hydrogen in the side chains, which are sites that can undergo oxidative degradation creating color and unintentional by-products. For formulators


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


Mid sensory: creamy soft


Final sensory: powdery soft


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