30 SKIN CARE


Formulating with Mediterranean botanical blend


The active ingredients in Mediterranean botanical blend are encapsulated in a heat stable polysaccharide, typically maltodextrin although other starches have been used that work equally well, prior to spray drying, Figure 1. The encapsulation allows the ingredients to be prepared as dry powders that do not require preservatives to maintain the integrity of the active ingredients. When formulating, the ingredient should be placed into the aqueous phase at temperatures below 40ºC preferably at the end of the final emulsion formation when the temperature of the finished product is below 40ºC. As can be seen in Figure 1, the powder has a yellowish colour that may slightly impact formulation colour at the recommended use levels of 2-3% in leave-on products and 0.5-1.5% in rinse-off products. The ingredient will not impart significant influences on the odour of the finished formulations. Table 2 reports some formulations


created by the companies with the Mediterranean botanical blend used at the recommended use levels. These complete formulations are available on the company’s websites (www.jeen.com and www.bionap.com) and have passed through high temperature (45ºC for three months) and 3-freeze-thaw stability testing protocols.


Conclusion


Examination of the impact of a botanical ingredient’s influence on reducing redness in skin exposed to harsh x-ray radiation during a breast cancer treatment regimen is exceptionally rare due to the difficulty in obtaining consent from the volunteers and the doctors conducting the study. Bionap, working in collaboration with the University of Catania, was able to conduct just such a study and the results indicated that the combination of unique Mediterranean botanical extracts worked better than a well-established topical therapeutic product containing triethanolamine (Trolamine). This is very strong data demonstrating that the combination of caper bud extract, opuntia extract and olive leaf extract has a potent ability to minimise free radical- induced erythema and skin redness. While the testing conditions could be considered extreme for cosmetic applications, the results are significant for those looking for unique, natural ingredients that have proven topical efficacy. It is noteworthy that the active ingredient is ECOCERT & COSMOS approved, VEGAN OK certified and 100% natural origin according to the ISO 16128. BotanicalsPlus is excited to be providing such ingredients in the US marketplace working in collaboration with


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


Table 2: Finished formulations containing the Mediterranean botanical blend. Formulation name


PSST- Post Shave Smooth Touch for Him/Her Detoxifying Peel Off Mask


Emulgel for oily and acne-prone skin Gentle baby wash


After sun body butter for sensitive skin


their Italian partners at Bionap and their strong partners at Jeen in US.


Stratum corneum moisturization at the molecular level. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;5:731-41.


2 Tagami H, Kikuchi K. Diseases that Affect Barrier Function. In: Skin Barrier. Ed. Elias PM and Feingold KR. Taylor & Francis, New York, NY., 2006, pages 447-468.


3 Schurer NY, Schwanitz HJ. Prevention and Repair of Barrier Disruption in Occupational Dermatology. In: Skin Barrier. Ed. Elias PM and Feingold KR. Taylor & Francis, New York, NY., 2006, pages 535-552.


4 Seité S, Bensadoun RJ, Mazer JM. Prevention and treatment of acute and chronic radiodermatitis. Breast Cancer 2017;9:551- 557.


5 Del Rosso JQ, Bikowski J. Trolamine-containing topical emulsion: clinical applications in dermatology. Cutis. 2008;81:209-14.


6 Gruber JV, Riemer J, Stojkoska V, Harthaus EM, Giec-Bojarska AM, Barbagallo M, Bonina A. Mediterranean botanicals blend boosts skin benefits. Person Care Mag. 2018 [In Press].


7 Bonina F, Puglia C, Ventura D, Aquino R, Tortora S, Sacchi A, Saija A, Tomaino A, Pellegrino ML, de Caprariis P. In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of a lyophilized extract of Capparis spinosa L buds. J Cosmet Sci. 2002;53:321-323.


8 Trombetta D, Occhiuto F, Perri D, Puglia C, Santagati NA, De Pasquale A, Saija A, Bonina F. Antiallergic and antihistaminic effect of two extracts of Capparis spinosa L. flowering buds. Phytother Res. 2005;19:29-33.


9 Arena A, Bisignano G, Pavone B, Tomaino A, Bonina FP, Saija A, Cristani M, D’Arrigo M, Trombetta D. Antiviral and immunomodulatory effect of a lyophilized extract of Capparis spinosa L. buds. Phytother Res. 2008;22: 313-317.


10 Trombetta D, Puglia C, Perri D, Licata A, Pergolizzi S, Lauriano ER, De Pasquale A, Saija A, Bonina FP. Effect of polysaccharides from Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) cladodes on the healing of dermal wounds in the rat. Phytomedicine. 2006;13:352-358.


11 Panico AM, Cardile V, Garufi F, Puglia C, Bonina F, Ronsisvalle S. Effect of hyaluronic acid and polysaccharides from Opuntia ficus indica (L.) cladodes on the metabolism of human


PC


References 1 Rawlings AV, Scott IR, Harding CR, Bowser PA.


Use level 3%


3%


2.5% 1% 2%


Code


J38-9A J37-80A


EG 0104-18 BW 0104-18 BD 1207-19


chondrocyte cultures. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007;111:315-21.


12 Petruk G, Di Lorenzo F, Imbimbo P, Silipo A, Bonina A, Rizza L, Piccoli R, Monti DM, Lanzetta R. Protective effect of Opuntia ficus-indica L. cladodes against UVA-induced oxidative stress in normal human keratinocytes. Bioorg Med Chem Lett. 2017;27:5485-5489.


13 Di Lorenzo F, Silipo A, Molinaro A, Parrilli M, Schiraldi C, D’Agostino A, Izzo E, Rizza L, Bonina A, Bonina F, Lanzetta R. The polysaccharide and low molecular weight components of Opuntia ficus indica cladodes: Structure and skin repairing properties. Carbohydr Polym. 2017;157:128-136.


14 Aissa I, Kharrat N, Aloui F, Sellami M, Bouaziz M, Gargouri Y. Valorization of antioxidants extracted from olive mill wastewater. Biotechnol Appl Biochem. 2017;64:579-589.


15 D’Angelo S, Ingrosso D, Migliardi V, Sorrentino A, Donnarumma G, Baroni A, Masella L, Tufano MA, Zappia M, Galletti P. Hydroxytyrosol, a natural antioxidant from olive oil, prevents protein damage induced by long-wave ultraviolet radiation in melanoma cells. Free Radic Biol Med. 2005;38:908-19.


16 Bisignano G, Tomaino A, Lo Cascio R, Crisafi G, Uccella N, Saija A. On the in-vitro antimicrobial activity of oleuropein and hydroxytyrosol. J Pharm Pharmacol. 1999;51:971-974.


17 Rizza L, D’Agostino A, Girlando A, Puglia C. Evaluation of the effect of topical agents on radiation-induced skin disease by reflectance spectrophotometry. J Pharm and Pharmcol. 2010;62:779-785.


18 Puglia C, Trombetta D, Venuti V, Saija A, Bonina F. Evaluation of in-vivo topical anti- inflammatory activity of indometacin from liposomal vesicles. J Pharm Pharmacol. 2004; 56: 1225–1232.


19 Wells M, Macmillan M, Raab G, MacBride S, Bell N, MacKinnon K, MacDougall H, Samuel L, Munro A. Does aqueous or sucralfate cream affect the severity of erythematous radiation skin reactions? A randomized controlled trial. Radiother Oncol. 2004;73:153-62.


20 Gruber JV, Holtz R, Yang SI. In vitro examination of an oleosome-based sun protection product on the influence of UVB- induced inflammation markers in human epidermal skin equivalent tissue model. J Photochem & Photobiol B: Biol. 2018; 179:39-45.


21 Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Invest Dermatol. 2015;8:455-461.


November 2019


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