106 SUNSCREEN
with a Xenon CW lamp of 125W operating at 75W (SPF-290 Analyser System).
Stability
The non-nano filters are manufactured with patented technology, which gives them a characteristic structure in which the particles are anchored and dispersed, improving the SPF and reducing the agglomeration that may be suffered by the mineral filters (especially the more reactive nanoparticles) and which affects the ageing of sun creams.
Sensoriality The sensory improvement with respect to formulas with other mineral filters is due to the easy dispersion in aqueous phase of the non-nano filters and the volume in formula, which is much lower than the NPs for the same SPF result (reduces the mineral load). The non-nano ‘S’ filter, thanks to its lower refractive index, is recommended for transparent formulas, and is easily incorporated both in aqueous and oily phase.
Manipulation. Safety
The non-nanometric size facilitates handling for formulators and production techniques. In addition, the lower volume of the non- nanometric filters affects the production equipment needed and the energy it requires. The non-nano filters are supplied in powder form and suitable PPE for particles (non-nanometric) must be used.
Regulations TiO2
or ZnO mineral filters can incorporate up to 25 wt.% in formula, except in applications that can lead to the exposure of the end user’s lungs due to inhalation if it contains ZnO.
Natural formulas The non-nano filters are ECOCERT and COSMOS certified (certification underway for the latest ‘T-tan’ and ‘T-rich’ product releases). According to ISO 16128 for natural products, they are products with 100% natural content (100% natural origin content).
enhanceU-S enhanceU-T enhanceU-T-light Zinc oxide, Titanium dioxide, Silica Titanium dioxide, Silica Titanium Dioxide, Silica, CI-77492, CI-77491 enhanceU-T-medium Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, Silica, CI-77491, CI-77499 enhanceU-T-warm Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, Silica, CI-77491, CI-77499 enhanceU-T-tan enhanceU-T-rich Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, CI-77491, Silica, CI-77499 Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, CI-77491, CI-77499, Silica enhanceU-T-exclusive (customised shading)
An addition to the range The range is completed with ‘SunT’ (ST), a non-nanometric mineral filter whose coating is specific to dispersion in oily phase. INCI is: Zinc oxide (And) Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina. The dispersion in oily phase is facilitated by the coating of stearic acid, suitable for natural formulas (alternatives to coating such as dimethicone). This filter is designed to confront the main challenges in formulation, in line with the rest of the range, as developed below:
High SPF and broad spectrum protection The efficiency characteristic of the ST filter is checked by dispersing it in the oily phase of a natural formula (see Figure 3). In it, 12wt.% of ‘S’ (A), ST (B) or ST that has been added with dispersant (C). Both filters reach high SPF and broad spectrum protection (see Table 2).
Photo-stability
The aluminium coating ensures the photo- stability of ST.
Stability
The ADParticles technology has enabled the creation of a characteristic structure in which the particles are anchored and dispersed, improving and maintaining the SPF stable over time. The agglomeration that might be suffered by other mineral filters in the formula is reduced.
Sensoriality
The dispersion in oily phase is facilitated by the stearic acid coating. ST can be used both in o/w as well as w/o emulsions, only in combination with dispersants, and enables the preparation of formulas with variable viscosity and skin-feel depending on the ingredients used. Table 3 shows the optical characterisation of a sample with the T-tan filter (Formula D: 10wt% ST, 3wt% T-tan as an example of possible combinations of ST with the non-nano colour filters.
Manipulation. Safety
The non-nanometric size of ST facilitates handling. The result of the characterisation by DLS (protocol: 0.01 g in 10 mL of H2
O MilliQ, 15
minutes in ultrasonic bath) is shown in Figure 4 (Z average 750nm, PDI 0.58).
n Enhance U-T 12% n Avo:octo 13.6% n Nano TiO2 12% n Avo:octo 1:1 6% SPF 30, Photostable
8 4 0
-4 -8
Irradiation time (h) 0 12 3
Figure 2: Photostability test. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC November 2019
8 4 0
-4 -8
-12 -16
Irradiation time (h) 0 12 3
UVA PF up to 16, Photostable
Table1: Description of range. Name
INCI
Type of UV filter No-nano
No-nano
No-nano with colour
No-nano with colour
No-nano with colour
No-nano with colour
No-nano with colour
No-nano with colour
∆SPF
∆UVAPF
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