NATURALS 75
Olive leaf extract delivers skin and sensorial benefits
n Eva Baldaro, Vincenzo Placa – Hallstar Italia Annabelle L’Hermitte – Hallstar France
Natural cosmetics are no longer a niche market dedicated to a limited group of hard-core green consumers. According to surveys carried out by the British market research firm Ecovia Intelligence, the worldwide turnover of natural cosmetics amounted to approximately 8.4 billion USD in 20101
and it is forecast to reach
approximately 16 billion USD at a CAGR of 10% by 2020.2
One of the main drivers of growth in natural cosmetics has been the consumer trend towards healthier and more conscious lifestyles and research has shown the steady growth of “natural claims” in the global cosmetic market.3
As described by the Personal Care
Product Council, emollients are cosmetic ingredients that help to maintain the soft, smooth, and pliable appearance of the skin. Emollients act as lubricants, reducing flaking and improving skin’s appearance.4 By remaining on the skin surface or in the stratum corneum, they have a significant effect on the delivery of lipo-soluble actives5,6
of the skin, resulting in an explicit sensory perception.7,8,9
and on the mechanical properties When included in a
formulation, they are fundamentally defined by their moisturisation and elasticity effects. Emollients are multifunctional
ingredients supporting multiple claims Light ET Abstract
The demand for greener cosmetic products has been steadily growing for the past decade. However, modern consumers are posing new challenges to the industry. They want products that make extensive use of natural, vegetable-derived ingredients, but they rightly expect the formulae to be highly effective and esthetically pleasing as well. Emollients play a major role in delivering sensorial experiences as well as moisturisation, a skin benefit that is at the very core of product effectiveness. In this article we describe the first ‘active emollient’ ever produced in the cosmetic industry: Sensolene®
Light ET. This emollient has all the characteristics that every eco-conscious
cosmetic formulator could desire to deliver superior products that meet the most demanding consumer’s expectations.
within formulations: skin-feel agents, solvents for numerous active ingredients and skin benefit agents, permeation enhancers, particle coating and suspension stabilisers, skin protectants against damaging environments, and gloss and shine control agents in makeup formulations or essential skin lipid supplements. Adjusted for individual skin conditions, all these functions and claims must meet different standards of chemical preferences, real or perceived safety and sustainability, and availability and cost- effectiveness. No wonder hundreds of emollients have been commercialised over the past 60 years and their number keeps on growing. A formulator’s first-line approach in
Table 1: Sensolene is a comprehensive family of multi-functional and sensorial emollients Sensolene®
Sensolene® INCI Chemical Properties
Physical Properties (at room temperature)
Sensorial Experience
Ethyl Olivate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract
Short chain alcohol, Very high unsaturation (fatty acids)
Liquid
Dry evanescent touch, Very fast absorption, Low viscosity silicones sensoriality, High refractive index for hair shine
November 2019 Ethylhexyl Olivate
Branched chain High unsaturation (fatty acids)
Liquid
High spreadability Fast absorption Medium viscosity Silicones sensoriality
Sensolene® Lauryl Olivate
Long and linear chain (alcohol and fatty acids)
Semi solid (MP < 32°C)
Long playtime Film forming
Nourishing and soothing effect
care DD
selecting emollients is by subjective judgment of the tactile sensory properties of the neat oils.10,11
The most obvious
function of an emollient is its lubricating and friction-reducing skin surface effect: it reduces friction forces exerted on the skin surface through contacts with the environment (skin-to-skin, clothing-to-skin, etc.) and thereby alleviates possible sources of discomfort and irritation. However, a more accurate selection of the right emollient would consider other factors, such as for example: l Chemical structure l Polarity l Chemical stability, for example when hydrolysis and oxidation phenomena are deemed to represent an issue for the finished product
l Sensorial profile of the finished product l Solvating power, for example when using UV filters
l Efficacy in delivering active ingredients A quick search through the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook12
reveals that several thousands
of substances are categorised as “emollients,” making it extremely challenging for formulators to choose the right ones. This is why Hallstar is committed to providing a comprehensive family of emollients that tick as many boxes as possible in a formulator’s wish list (Table 1). The latest-born emollient within this family is Sensolene®
Light ET (INCI: Ethyl Olivate, Olea Europea (Olive) Leaf Extract). PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
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