76 NATURALS
Not just an emollient, a “Dermollient” Modern cosmetic formulators want their ingredients to deliver multiple benefits. In a fast-paced market such as the cosmetic industry, consumers’ evolving needs and perceptions are one of the leading drivers to new product development concepts. Multifunctional ingredients offer the convenience of using fewer materials yet meeting consumers’ demand for high- performing products. This is the rationale behind the creation of the first “active emollient” in the market. Sensolene Light ET, (now referred to as ‘the active emollient’), contrary to what its INCI name suggests, is not merely a physical blend of two ingredients. By utilising our patented Oléo-éco-extraction process, it is in fact an extract of Olive Leaf in Ethyl Olivate (Fig 1). The use of an ester derived from olive oil as the extraction carrier, i.e. ethyl olivate, offers significant advantages from a skin- feel point of view. Using several sensorial descriptors, i.e., spreadability, absorption and ‘silky’ effect, a trained panel evaluated a topical product containing 5% of the active emollient. They then compared the product to those generated by the application of the same cream using 5% of dimethicone 2 cSt on one side and 5% of dimethicone 5 cSt on the other. Results can be seen in the plot shown in Figure 2. No statistically significant difference on any of the parameters tested between any samples (p> 0,05) was observed, thus indicating that the active emollient has a very favourable sensorial profile which can be effectively employed to develop esthetically pleasing cosmetic products. Figure 3, a plot of the Spreadability Number VS Brookfield Viscosity, shows us that the active emollient can also be grouped with those emollients generally
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
Spreadability Absorption n Sensolene® Silky skin Light ET n Dimethicone 2 cSt n Dimethicone 5 cSt Figure 2: Sensorial descriptors of Ethyl Olivate, Olea Europea (Olive) Leaf Extract compared to dimethicone (2 and 5 cSt). PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC November 2019
Figure 1: Basic scheme of the patented Oléo-éco-extraction process.
classified as “light” and “fast absorbing.” Another major advantage offered by the active emollient is the hydrating power it imparts to products that use it as an emollient. In another test, cosmetic creams were formulated with 5% of the active emollient or 5% of another emollient chosen amongst cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone 1.5 cSt, dimethicone 2 cSt, dimethicone 5 cSt and dimethicone 50 cSt. Corneometry was performed on the
forearm of 12 volunteers against placebo. As shown in Figure 4, the active emollient provides a statistically significant (p>0,05) improvement of skin hydration compared to placebo cream. None of the other substances’ test results were comparable.
Why an antioxidant emollient? According to Mintel, the number of launches of cosmetic products making antioxidant
claims has been steadily growing on a global scale. To some extent one could argue that antioxidation is at the very core of several skin benefits delivered by cosmetic products including, for example, anti-pollution activity and prevention of damage caused by various sun rays (UV, IR, etc.). Substances with antioxidant properties have been used in cosmetic formulae for decades to both impart skin benefits and protect other ingredients. The more natural a finished product is, the more important is the use of antioxidants to avoid problems linked to the degradation of vegetable ingredients, from stability to unpleasant odors (e.g., rancidity) and discoloration.
The antioxidant activity of Olive Leaf Extract, and its superiority to the comparable antioxidant activity of olive oil, has been well- documented for years. The total antioxidant
Rank Sum
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